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5 May 03 Bush
Camp 95 km W Mt Isa to Bush Camp 35 km E Camooweal Last night we went to bed with total cloud cover but when we awoke this morning at 5 am we were in a million star bedroom. The clouds had cleared and the sky was brilliant with so many stars that were all twinkling away and looking so fabulous. We had been told that the nigh sky around Camooweal was fabulous, and if this morning is any indication then we will be in for a treat. We packed up from our little bush hideaway and started along the road. As it turned out we were three km from the David Hall Monument and Rest Area. The rest area had a campervan and a couple of trucks in it and was very open and dusty, so our little stop in the bush was definitely the better option. We rode on enjoying the smooth bitumen and the down side of the undulations. We were making good time and feeling just a few sore muscles from yesterdays near 100 km ride. Funnily enough, even if we had gone onto the Rest Area we would have been short of the 100 km mark by enough to make you spit. We stopped for a break at around 25 km and Joanne noticed that one of her riding gloves had fallen off her trailer where she usually has them secured. It would have happened a few km's back when she put her front lights on the trailer after the sun came up, so like me when I lost my rear light, she was not a happy camper, especially as it was one of her favourite gloves. We did think about going back for it but who knows where it was, and that many extra km's today was not a welcome option, so we left it. Not much to talk about today with the terrain or features. It's pretty barren out here and about the only thing to notice are the cattle which cross the road or stand there in the middle of the road and stare at you before taking a hasty retreat as you are upon them. Quite a few caravans on the move today as well. The wind got up again and was helping us along nicely. We came to the 82 mile camp where the gangs who made the road used to camp, and not far from there a huge windmill and two water tanks on the side of the road. I thought this would be a good place to camp especially if there was water available for us to fill and enjoy the solar shower, but to no avail. The tanks were empty, the windmill just turning in the wind with the water being fed straight out of the ground and into a hose and off into the bush somewhere. The traffic was reasonable today and quite a few road trains rumbled past. At one stage I heard the two drivers talking about us and that they thought they had passed us near Burke & Wills. I hopped on the radio and told them that it would have been us. What ensued was a conversation about what we were doing etc and one of the drivers said "I reckon you are legends for doing that", so I thanked him. As he signed off he said "well, I was going to say don't go doing anything I wouldn't do, but then I guess you are - bugger me!" which I thought was not only funny, but nice. We rode on thinking we will be
doing another 95 km day and arriving at Camooweal this afternoon when we
came across the sign for the 92 mile camp, which we thought was nothing more
than a cleared area off the road. Like all the camps along this road, the
gangs used it in 1941 to make the road and then again in 43 when they
bituminised the road. We rode past thinking it wouldn't be much and it was
then that I spied a track leading off into the bush. This was our cue to
take a look. What we found was a nice campsite with shady trees right next
to a
Today's Distance - 60.47 km's. Total Distance - 12,117.1 km's 6 May 03 Bush
Camp 35 km E Camooweal to Avon Downs Rest Area We did indeed have the million star room and the view was magnificent. We awoke to a cool morning next to a very quiet peaceful waterhole and after admiring the night sky for a while we packed up and headed out onto the road towards Camooweal. We arrived in Camooweal around 9 am and found the park where we could top up our water supplies before riding into what appeared to be a very nice little town. Camooweal has a population of 350 but has three petrol stations, a pub, a general store and a post office/general store. We stopped in and bought some food to top up with before heading out of town. Two of the petrol stations have accommodation as does the pub. We were heading for the border
some 13 km away when we were stopped by some fencing contractors who called
us the highlight of their day. They were putting up a 3 strand barbed wire
fence for the next 18
We rode on making good time with the wind behind us but the terrain had changed to wide open grasslands with not much on it, in fact one could say it was more nullus arbor than the other nullus arbor down south. The good thing about it though was that we could see and hear traffic coming for miles thus enabling us to ride side by side for most of it. After 70 km's we were looking for a campsite when the local constabulary came along and informed us that Bill & Julia were about 20 km ahead and that there was a rest area 25 km ahead opposite the Police Station. Well, we decided to go on and see how we went. The road and traffic were pretty good although Joanne was developing a sore left ankle. We decided that if we found anything good as far as a campsite was concerned we'd stop there. Well, needless to say nothing came into view and we arrived at the Avon Downs Rest Area after a big days ride. There were some caravanners there who gave us cold water while they piled on the questions, but no Bill & Julia. So after some nice cool drinks and setting the Palace up we went for a walk to take a photo of the river and the lilies. Well, who should we find camped next to the river but Bill & Julia. It looked like a real nice campsite but I would be to worried about the snapping logs that might be living there. Anyway, we stayed at the rest area and were even invited to happy hour with the caravanners which was nice. We all had to be on our best behaviour though as the Police Station is opposite the rest area. Nothing else is there, just the Police Station with a beat of 600 km in every direction. So after a big day carting all our gear plus 16 litres of water each, we spent a peaceful night checking the insides of our eyelids for holes. Today's Distance - 104.63 km's. Total Distance - 12,221.7 km's 7 May 03 Avon
Downs Rest Area to Soudan Rest Area We packed up and left the rest area while all the caravan people were still asleep and around 30 minutes after Bill & Julia passed by. We had slept well and were refreshed and even Joanne's ankle was good. We were heading for the Soudan
Station rest area or anywhere else that would make a nice campsite. The
terrain was still very barren and our tailwind was still with us. There were
a few rises today and that made the going a little harder, but it was mostly
the open
We rode on and on some more and passed the Soudan Station with it's old steam tractor at the entrance to the driveway. Before long we spied a windmill off in the distance. This was going to be the Soudan Station rest area and on our arrival we found a rest area with some sparse trees and Bill & Julia underneath one just starting their lunch. We have since moved off into the bush behind the rest area, have filled the solar shower with water from the bore and have enjoyed a shower behind the bushes. Feeling refreshed and clean again we have had afternoon tea and are sitting here in the shade doing our diaries. The rest area is filling up with caravans and motorhomes so we are glad we are out the back. Today's Distance - 66.09 km's. Total Distance - 12,287.8 km's 8 May 03 Soudan
Rest Area to Bush Camp 25 km E Wonarah Bore Another brilliant canvas of stars greeted our awakening this morning and although the air was cool, it was not quite as cool as yesterday, perhaps having some bush around us helped in that department. We packed up and left the four caravans and one motorhome as we silently slipped out of the rest area not long after Bill & Julia did. The first ten km's were mainly uphill and Joanne was starting to fade which made us wonder if we should have taken a day off while we had good shade and a bore water supply. Daylight revealed we were climbing on to the top of a ridge which we then followed for quite a while which was good because the going was easier not to mention the downhill the other side. At 33 km we came across the
Wunara Store which is now abandoned. It
We left the store and rode up the hill only to find Bill & Julia at the bottom of the other side with something wrong. The trailer was off, as were the bags and panniers, Julia was sitting in the shade and Bill was working on the rear wheel. Yep, a puncture. They seem to think the tube was pinched and the new dynamo running around the tyre helped it. All being okay we rode on leaving them to their fun. At 60 km we found a Telstra optical fibre booster facility on the side of the road and investigated it as a campsite as there were a couple of trees nearby. It turned out to be no good as a campsite so we had lunch and then pressed on figuring we'd just get to the Wonarah Bore which was another 25 km away. We splashed on the sunscreen and had a good drink in anticipation of another 25 km ride and as is often the case, a track appeared 3 km after we had started out. We decided to take it and see if there was a campsite there. It looks like it is an old "borrow pit" for the road and yes, there is shade, yes it is off the road (500 m) and yes we are camping there. Bill & Julia rode past not long after we got here but must have had flat batteries on their radio as there was no reply to our call, so we guess they will find a tree to pull up under or go on to the bore. Today's Distance - 63.81 km's. Total Distance - 12,351.6 km's 9 May 03 Bush
Camp 25 km E Wonarah Bore to Wonarah Bore. Another million star room and a very peaceful night, especially as we were 500 metres off the main highway. We woke to a coolish morning and packed up with a short ride in mind. The road was quiet and we had only two cars going the opposite way to worry about. We were riding along enjoying the ever changing sky behind us as dawn broke on another day. The birds are fabulous at this time of the day as they are waking up and starting their day. Before long we arrived at the Wonarah Bore where there was two caravans, a motorhome and a large 40 seater bus parked. The bus was from the Terra Australis company and had a full load of European teenagers (late teens & early twenties) onboard. On our arrival they swamped us with questions and were absolutely blown away with the statistics of our trip. They had camped here last night, sleeping on bed rolls under the stars and had a great time. The lady from the motorhome told us Bill & Julia had camped here but had not had a good night as the bus load of Europeans sat up with a campfire and singing etc till late, not to mention the torches flashing around all over the place and people tramping all over the place to go to the toilet in the bush. She said that they had had a bad night the night we camped at the Soudan Bore as well because it was noisy, but that happens when you camp out the front with everyone rather than out the back in the bush where we went, so it sounds like they might be a little tired today. Good job they only have 40 km to Barkley Homestead today. We are having a short day so we can have a rest as we haven't had one since Mt Isa, and so we can catch up on some routine trike maintenance, and get some diary stuff done. There is not much here except a large windmill, an empty dam, loads of 44 gallon rubbish bins, a water tank full of water and some shade trees. Once everyone left we have had the place to ourselves. We have plonked ourselves in the best shade, upturned an empty 44 gallon drum for a table, cooked two lots of damper in the coals of the bus load's fire, done the maintenance, caught up on some other stuff, had a few coffee's, worked on some plans and generally had a lazy day. Over the course of the day various vehicles have come in for a break and it has been interesting to see the different types, one of which looked like an old twin cab fire truck with a caravan body on the back rather than the water tank. We realised today that this was the rest area Mike Vermeulen almost made it to on the day he rode over 200 km after not being able to get water at Soudan and the Wunara Store (5 June 01 entry at www.mvermeulen.com/oneyear/index.htm) and ended up sleeping beside the road. G'day Mike if you're reading this. Today's Distance - 23.47 km's. Total Distance - 12,375.1 km's 9 May 03 Wonarah
Bore to Barkley Homestead We spent a pleasant day at the bore yesterday and just when we thought we would be the only campers there, in came two others, and when we awoke we found another had snuck in during the night. Another million star view (yep, it sure is hard to take) and a cool morning greeted us as we packed up and rode off. Another short day today as we are heading off to the Barkley Homestead to spoil ourselves by washing not only our bodies but our clothes. The sunrise was magnificent again as was yesterdays sunset which we watched with a truckie who had pulled in for a meal break, and who let me climb on top of his rig to see if I could get a better photo. Here's the bore during the day, and with the sunset.
We rode on towards the homestead enjoying the relatively good going, the cool of the morning (read chilly) and the dawn. Not long before 9 am the homestead came into view. Barkley Homestead is a little like the Burke & Wills Roadhouse on the way down from Normanton, a regular oasis in the middle of nowhere. Not too sure where the actual homestead is but we found the roadhouse complete with bar and restaurant, motel and camping sites. The powered sites are $22 a night but also have shade, the unpowered sites are $15 a night and have hardly any shade which I think is designed to get you to spend the extra $7 because the difference in comfort is reasonably dramatic. We are not going to fall for that one though as we don't want power and have found shade and a table and seat with a roof over it down the back. J The homestead has a sign out the front which tells people why things are so expensive there, and it's because they run everything with the aid of a generator which uses 500 litres of diesel per day! At that rate you'd almost need a tanker once a week just for the genny. Sometime ago I promised that I'd report on how our dried foodstuffs were going and how we were finding them. Well, we are happy to report that all the dried meats (steak, chicken and silverside) have kept and eaten very nicely thank you, as have the dried veggies. Each day we have as a ride snack a small bag of nuts, sultanas, dates, prunes and some slices of dried mango (hello Ann & Bob J) so not only is the meat etc working out okay, the dried mango is pretty good also. We have also sent two parcels of dried food off to friends in Darwin so we'll have more of it all when we head down the west coast. Today's Distance - 40.50 km's. Total Distance - 12,415.6 km's 10 May 03 Barkley Homestead
to Bush Camp 25 km E 41 Mile Bore. We were enjoying a peaceful sleep when around 2.30 am we heard somebody driving around like it was a smash up derby. It turned out to be some people who obviously had a few drinks from the bar and then decided to take their 4x4 bush bashing on the opposite side of the road to the homestead, but other than that, we had a peaceful night and woke to another cool morning. We rode out of the homestead
and off into the night, passing the hoons who were all sitting around a
large fire opposite the homestead. We
We made it to the rest area in good time and found a nice little place under some trees that would give shade all day before discovering that the bore, although it had a windmill pumping, didn't provide any water out of the tap on our side of the fence, so we decided that as we were feeling okay, and the wind was behind us, and the road was good that we'd push on a bit. Not long after we left the rest
area the bush changed and changed to the type that provides very little
shade and of course, nowhere to camp. There will be some coming up soon was
the reasoning. Well, we rode on and on and things were looking pretty bleak.
We were riding along and
So, looking for a campsite in the ever dwindling bush, we rode on and on, all the time clocking up the kilometres. At around 70 km we found a track leading off into the bush and a tree to hide under. Problem was that the place was full of a type of grass that leaves little darts everywhere in you and your clothing, so we decided to vacate and try again. We rode on and on, twice getting our photo taken by passing motorists before finding ourselves a campsite with some shade in the bush at a Telstra Telephone Microwave Tower site after 93 km's. So much for us saying we were not going to have a big day. Along the way we have been watching the km posts to the Stuart Highway and counting them down, SH-440, SH-430, SH-420 etc, well, we are very pleased that the next one will say SH-90. Today's Distance - 93.56 km's. Total Distance - 12,509.2 km's |
waterhole,
so, we did what all tired and thirsty cyclists do, we made it our campsite
for the night. We have had a look around and see no signs of any snapping
logs (crocs), have set up the Palace in the shade, have filled the solar
shower and enjoyed a nice warm shower and tonight we are going to cook
damper and baked beans for tea as we sit next to the waterhole and watch the
sun go down and hopefully, the million star room will also be ours again
tonight.
km's!
We eventually came to the border so we stopped for the obligatory photo
before continuing on. So it was Goodbye Queensland and Hello Northern
Territory. Once we were over the border the road surface became nice and
smooth but the shoulder vanished and the grass was right next to the road.
grassland
we have had since we left Camooweal. This type of land allows us to see the
wildlife but it can be quite boring when kilometre after kilometre looks the
same and the kilometres seem to pass slowly. At one stage we came across a
heap of crows and some wedge tailed eagles enjoying the remains of a
kangaroo for breakfast. The wedge tail stayed next to his meal as we
approached and we got to about 20 feet from him before he spread his wings
and walked down the road away from us, his talons scraping on the road
surface as he did so. We reached for the camera's and just as Joanne got a
photo, and before I could, he took off. What a magnificent bird they are.
was
an aboriginal owned/operated (we presume by the Arruwurra People whose name
is on the letterbox) store but is no longer in use, the reason we are not
sure of. The store and toilet block are constructed of mud bricks, there is
an old freezer out the back, the taps still have water in them and the
toilet block has been vandalised. One wall of the store has a couple of
holes in it and we could see inside which looked in good nick. Next to it
was some sort of communications facility and information boards on outback
communications.
enjoyed
a reasonable looking sky as the sun rose and had done 40 km by 9 am. We both
agreed that we'd get to the next rest area, some 53 km away before deciding
what to do with the rest of the day - little did we know.
all
of a sudden a creature came into view on the road. As we were riding side by
side I was able to miss it and Joanne let it pass under the trike. We had
never seen anything like it before so we pulled up and walked back for a
look, camera at the ready. It was some sort of lizard, definitely alive but
stood there rigid in the hope that we would miss him. We got closer and I
was able to get the camera real close to him for the shot. Pity I missed his
tail which was upright and rigid as well. He was about 6" long and stood
about 3" high. We don't know what he is and we saw another two as we rode
on.