13-19nov06

Monday 13 November 2006

While hidden away in our little bush hideaway the wind chose to change direction and to come in stronger than before. We lay awake listening to the wind and hoping that none of the trees we had camped under would decide the shed a bough or two. The good thing that came with the change in weather was the clearing of the cloud and the appearance of the stars - and what a show they put on.

We awoke early but just rolled over and had a nap, after all we couldn't do anything in Hyden until 8.30 am when the supermarket opened and the telecentre was not open until 9 am. We broke camp and headed into town and straight into a very strong wind, so it was good that we were only going about 5 kilometres.

We rolled into Hyden and everyone was waving a welcome, including the grain truck drivers one of which even videoed us as we rode by. A quick stop at the supermarket for supplies and it was onto the telecentre to upload the journal to the Internet and clear the email, many of which we will reply to when we arrive in Norseman. From Hyden it was a short run up the hill to the caravan park at Wave Rock where $22 secured us the right to choose a dust bowl tent site under sparse tree cover. Of course, along with that level of luxury came a nice long scrub in the shower and use of the electric BBQ on which we cooked some steak, bought in town. We must have provided the park residents with some entertainment as we wandered around the "tent" area with a compass in hand, looking at sites for the necessary level of flatness and trying to determine which spot would provide us with the most shade.

Showered and feeling human again we spent some time organising our new supplies and the 24 litres of water we are going to carry to get us to the Emily Anne mine where the resident manager has told us we can get some more. Of interest today were the two indigenous men we saw all painted up in their tribal war paint. Just before the tour bus arrived they left their caravan site and wandered over to get ready for their performance. Once the tour bus was in and the occupants suitably guided to the appropriate site, the sounds of aboriginal music filled the area from where Wave Rock is, and then as quickly as it all started it stopped, the tourists left and the two men headed straight for the shower to wash off that paint so they could resume their spot under the tree at the back of their caravan - tourism, you have to love it!

As far as the caravan park is concerned, for what is provided (compared to some) we felt it was well and truly over priced, and definitely resting on the fact that it is the only one in Hyden and its only redeeming feature is Wave Rock which is 150 m from the campsite.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 5 W of Hyden

To: Hyden then out to Wave Rock

Ride Time:
1 hrs 2 mins

Distance:
11 km's

Av Speed:
11 km/h

Max Speed:
34 km/h

Max Altitude:
292 m

Max Climb: 5 %

Av Climb: 2 %

Weather: Hot and sunny 33 deg C. Strong E headwind

Tuesday 14 November 2006

The previous evening I took the opportunity to visit Wave Rock whilst there were no tourists around. For those who have not been there, here is a picture of it.

We had decided that because today was forecast to be hot and that dreaded Easterly wind was to continue, that we should try and get some of today's distance in before the sun really took hold. We arose at 4.30 am and were on the road by 5.30 am having given entertainment to the German tourists located in their whiz-bang hire campers near our campsite as they watched us pack up.

The first 35 kilometres was on bitumen road but unfortunately for us the wind was there right from the start. Loaded with food and 12 litres of water each we commenced the dirt road to Norseman. About 15 kilometres into the ride Joanne spotted two cyclists coming the other way and on approaching them we were greeted with "what the bloody hell are you two doing out here?" I replied with "we were just going to ask you the same question!" Phil and Alan had ridden the Holland track and experienced some pretty harsh conditions including a 47 deg C day. Each towing a bob trailer loaded to the hilt and Alan with a modified Bob and a huge big rear wheel. A nice exchange of cycling stories and information about our respective trails and we were off again, they with the wind and sun at their backs and us with it all in front of us.

We pressed on and before long came to the gravel and that was where the fun really started. The gravel road was bearable and reasonably good to ride on but the really hard part was the ever present and unrelenting Easterly we were riding into.

Around 1130 am and with about 45 kilometres in the bag we decided enough was enough and got out of the heat for an hour or so. We stripped down to help cool off and even had a little lie down before forcing down some lunch and debating whether or not to cook the main meal and ride late, or leave it and push on - we decided to push on. We wanted to get to a place called Forrestonia Plots where, in the late 1800's some brave people had attempted to make a go of things. We climbed and climbed and attempted to roll down the other side but the gravel and wind had other ideas, making anything over the uphill crawling pace of 6 km/h uphill seem like a huge downhill run.

We eventually came to the State Barrier Fence, designed and maintained to keep rabbits etc out of the agricultural area and when miximitoses (spelling) seemed to do the job, the fence was kept to keep the Emu's out. A grid across the road greeted us and told us that we had arrived at the fence, now maintained by 4 wheel drive but in past years by camel carts as shown on the right.

We pressed on and eventually came to Forrestania Plots, our planned campsite for today. There is nothing there now except an old tin shed which someone has called the Forrestania Pub. We took up as spot down the track in the shade and after a brief moment of reflection on today's ride, put the billy on for a coffee, had a short rest and made camp. Today was a hard day's ride not only because of the wind, but because we are traveling West to East and the hills run North to South.

Today's Stats

From: Wave Rock

To: Bush Camp Forrestania Plots

Ride Time:
6 hrs 33 mins

Distance:
62.07 km's

Av Speed:
9.40 km/h

Max Speed:
27.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
346 m

Max Climb: 7 %

Av Climb: 2 %

Weather: Hot and sunny 38 deg C. Strong Easterly Headwind

Wednesday 15 November 2006

While dawn was dozing we were awake and packing up. We had decided that as the temperature was a little more than we liked, and the road and wind against us, that the best thing to do was get up early and get on the road. A little after 5 am we rode out of Forrestania Plots commenced today's ride. The road had not improved and neither had our strength, so we plodded along dodging the pot holes and corrugations, struggling up the hills at around 5-7 km/h and really beginning to wonder what the hell we were doing and why?

Traffic was light and that made the going easier, then around 15 kilometres after we started we came to the top of a hill to find the Flying Fox Mine. A quick calculation of the distance to the Emily Anne mine and of the water remaining and we decided to ride in and see if we could get a little insurance water. "Sure" was the reply when I asked if we could top up our water supplies and after collecting a water bag from Joanne, I was duly led to the potable water tap. Not only did I manage to get water, but I was offered and added a few ice cubes from the ice cube machine next to the tap. This would be water for the end of today's ride and which would be wonderfully cold, having been secreted away from the sun's glare under the tarp on the back of the bob trailer. A short conversation with our benefactor and we were off, happy in the knowledge that we no longer had to ride the anticipated 70 kilometres in these very hot conditions, ready for a short hop to our arranged water source the following day.

Leaving the Flying Fox mine and we were on a wonderful piece of gravel road, obviously made and paid for by the mine, smoother than anything we had ridden on since we started this road, and nice and wide as well. Of course all good things eventually come to an end and the mine traffic turned off towards Southern Cross leaving us back on the tourist road. What we didn't know was that from that intersection, we would climb the never ending (or so it seemed) hill. The hill went for 8 kilometres and it was there that our highest grade (10%) for the day was obtained. We would get to a place where we thought the hill was going to end, only to find there was another riser behind the crest we thought we were on. The corrugations were very bad and deep enough to lose a car in (or so it seemed) and of course, they made grinding up the hill very, very hard work. With stomachs growling, legs crying out for energy and lungs screaming we decided that we should take a rest and have something to eat. The sun was starting to really have an effect on us and the vegetation very sparse but we eventually found a sapling tall enough to provide a small piece of shade so we took up residency and had lunch.

Feeling slightly better and glad to have our stomachs filled again, we set off as the sun broke through some clouds and really set upon us, the wind was still there but thankfully had started to move direction slightly which, a blessing in disguise meant that the dust kicked up by vehicles would blow away from instead of directly over us. Most of the traffic has been slowing down as it approaches us which is nice, though probably not so that they wont get dust on us but out of sheer curiosity and wonder as to what two people would be doing cycling out here.

Time and distance were marching on and by 2 pm we had had enough, so it was time to try and locate a decent campsite, a task not made easy by the low lying vegetation. We climbed yet another hill and spied a small gravel pit with reasonably easy access out the back to some small saplings that were providing some shade around the base of themselves. Further inspection showed that there was a good flat spot for the tent where it would not be seen from the road and so another campsite was found.

We parked the trikes under separate sources of shade (not enough room for two in one spot) and after bird bath and setting ourselves up, sat to write up the day's proceedings with coffee in hand as the breeze kept us cool and the flies out of our face.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp at Forrestania Plots

To: Bush Camp behind Gravel Pit 40 km W Emily Anne Mine.

Ride Time:
6 hrs 17 mins

Distance:
52.65 km's

Av Speed:
8.30 km/h

Max Speed:
26.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
409 m

Max Climb: 10 %

Av Climb: 2 %

Weather: Hot and sunny 36 deg C. Strong Easterly Headwind

Thursday 16 November 2006

Like yesterday, we were up before dawn had even cracked a smile across the horizon, despite being woken around 2 am to batten down the hatches as the rain came through. The evening had been stifling hot as mother nature built up some rain in the clouds and we lay naked in the tent trying to get any sort of fresh air we could and at the same time fall asleep. Eventually the wind cooled the area some what and we were able to dress for bed and fall asleep.

This mornings sunrise was that of grey ominous clouds over the top of a fire red horizon of which the sun eventually poked it's head. We commenced our run to the Emily Anne mine where we had arranged with the resident manager, John Croall, to pick up water. The road was surprisingly good and we made good time. Some 7 km's after we started we had reached Grevillia Hill, so named because that is all that grows there, tall spindly plants with pleasant coloured and smelling bottlebrush shaped flowers. The view over the surrounding area is very nice and when the wild flowers are out it is a carpet of them for as far as you can see (we saw it on a previous trip along the is road by car).

Before we knew it we were at the Breakaways, a campsite about 1.5 kilometres off of the road and in an area where the limestone cliffs were breaking away through wind and rain erosion. We took a break before encountering some of the worst corrugated road we have ridden on, which made the going slow and tedious and leaving us with that one step forward, three steps back feeling.

We eventually came to the turnoff to the Emily Anne Nickel Mine, where our day improved like you would not believe. A short 2 kilometres into the admin area was our goal and we were met along the way by a lady who was to be our host for the time we were there. Gail escorted us down the road to ensure that we were not a hazard to the monster trucks that operate there as they carry loads of nickel bearing rock. On arrival at the admin area we were promptly given a parking space under cover at the Mine Rescue and Training building. Some fresh water and anything else we needed were offered and we very quickly took up Gail's offer of a shower with towels supplied. The resident manager, John Croall took some time out of his very busy schedule to come and greet us before he had to fly out and it was great to be able to meet him having only conversed by email previously.

Water bags filled and ourselves showered and changed, we had some lunch before Chrissy came for a chat and then she and Gail took us for a vehicle tour of the mine, mine camp (complete with pool, gym and half sized indoor cricket pitch) and then to the highest point around for wonderful views over Lake Johnston and Lake Hope.

Mining is a big operation at any time and Lion Ore's site is no different. The Emily Anne mine is not like I thought it would be - splattered all over the place with no regard to the environment. They have gone to great pains to look after the environment as much as possible and have contained the inevitable damage to a small area and have many great environmental initiatives that help reduce the impact and allow for regeneration etc one they have finished. They even use different bins to recycle their waste and have provided the same for travelers out on the main road.

On return to the admin area we packed ourselves up, participated in a photo shoot for the newsletter (an agreement between John Croall and us in return for the water) and departed. Thanks must be given to John Croall for allowing us access to the site and for the water, thanks to Chrissy and Rebecca for their friendliness and a very big thank you to our wonderful host Gail, who turned our day into a wonderful one and one which we will not easily forget. We could not have asked for more and felt very privileged to have been afforded this level of assitance.

Loaded to the gunnels with water and feeling so much better, not to mention cleaner, we were escorted to the main road again as thunder storms rolled in and we went off in search of a campsite, which we found among the gimlets (green and bronze trunked trees) some 12 kilometres from the mine.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp behind Gravel Pit 40 km W Emily Anne Mine.

To: 12 km E of Emily Anne Mine.

Ride Time:
5 hrs 35 mins

Distance:
59.89 km's

Av Speed:
10.7 km/h

Max Speed:
29.50 km/h

Max Altitude:
445 m

Max Climb: 9 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Hot & Humid. Thunderstorms then very hot & sunny 38 deg C.

Friday 17 November 2006

As has been our ritual of late, we arose early (4 am) and got on the road. Last night as we lay in the tent we could see the thunderstorms and lightening to the south, the lightening strikes illuminating some of the trees we were under.

We commenced down the road towards Disappointment Rock, our planned destination for the day. We had not gone more than a kilometer when I had the distinct feeling of being slowed down. Upon stopping I was to discover that one of the water bags had slipped from its stowage on the bob trailer and was in fact being dragged along in the dirt, potentially a disastrous event, as losing 6 litres of water would have had dire consequences. Disaster averted we continued on through the very corrugated and loose gravel road.

The road was not being kind to us as far as the surface was concerned but then we crested a hill and there was one of the most memorable down hill runs we have had. Not only was it down hill, but the surface was very hard packed gravel which allowed good speed and easy rolling and it went for quite a few kilometres. The road eventually leveled out around the MCDermid Rock entrance but the surface continued on to Lake Johnston, a huge salt lake, some of which we had seen yesterday when being shown around by Gail and Chrissy. We pulled up at the camping and picnic area and enjoyed the view of the lake and surrounds all by ourselves, nothing to break the silence but the wind, and the occasional buzzing of a fly whilst having our morning snack.

We eventually pulled ourselves back out onto the road and up the to the viewpoint for a photo or two. Having seen that there was traffic coming ahead we took the extra time to rest and commenced pedaling again after one of the mines huge 3 trailer road trains came along. We were passed by a number of mine associated vehicles today and all of the drivers slowed down to which ensured we were not totally covered in dust.

As we neared Disappointment Rock the terrain flattened some more with the occasional climb to remind us that our legs were sore, and the vegetation changed as well. Tall shady trees lined both sides of the road and provided us with places to rest out of the sun which was slowly baking us at 35 deg C. We stopped under one beautiful tree and had the local birds of prey swooping around trying to remove us from their territory.

About a kilometer from our destination a huge mine truck came up behind us, so as is our customary practice, we pulled over to give the driver as much room as possible. We could hear the driver going down through the gears and using his exhaust brakes to slow the monster down, almost to crawling pace, so slow that we thought he was going to stop and talk to us, but he just cranked it up again after he got past us and went on his way, giving us a toot on the air horn as he did, and receiving a wave of thanks from us.

We arrived at Disappointment Rock to find the concrete table and chair under very sparse trees and in the sun, so we rigged the hoochie for shade and happily ensconced ourselves underneath.

Boiling of the billy and lunch then it was minor trike maintenance, journals and relaxing. This site, despite having little to no shade is rather up market as it not only has a concrete table, seat and nearby fire pit and griddle, but it has an enviro loo, which sure beats having to dig a hole. Now that is luxury.

With approximately 84 kilometres to Norseman we are now almost at the end of this part of the ride, it was not long ago that we started up a dirt road and wondered what was ahead of us and would we make it? Now the corrugations, dust, sand, gravel, rocks, slow up hills and constantly being shaken around seems second nature and although it is hard work, it has thus far been enjoyable.

Today's Stats

From: 12 km E of Emily Anne Mine.

To: Disappointment Rock 84 kilometres from Norseman.

Ride Time:
4 hrs 12 mins

Distance:
46.68 km's

Av Speed:
11.1 km/h

Max Speed:
33 km/h

Max Altitude:
380 m

Max Climb: 5 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Hot & Sunny 37 deg C.

Saturday 18 November 2006

No brilliant dawn to greet us this morning, just an overcast sky that the sun had managed to burn off by mid morning. We departed our peaceful camp at Disappointment Rock and continued on. The first 5 kilometres was rather hard but with legs that had been rested for most of yesterday we made reasonable progress. The sun was starting to come up so I reached for my sunglasses only to find they were not there, so having gone too far to back track I realised that I had left them somewhere back at the last camp and would now ride to Norseman without them, a task, considering the glare of the sun and the dust from the vehicles which I would not enjoy.

The road was fairly corrugated and of course hard to ride on as we ducked all over the place like a drunk driver looking for the easiest way through the energy sapping wheel marks and corrugations which are accentuated by the trailer behind. Talking of wheel marks, anyone following behind us would have seen our tyre marks and wondered who or what was ahead and using all of the road.

A number of vehicles passed us and as before, the truck drivers going to and from the mine were slowing down to pass us at a safe speed and to minimise the dust. We would hear them slowing down about a kilometer away and we would wave our thanks as they passed us and it would then take them another kilometer to get back to full speed - Thanks guys, we appreciate your courtesy. Of course, the same courteous driving was not exhibited by those in their four wheel drives, who just because their perceived safety etc, just barreled on past spraying us and everything else with dust and rocks- total morons.

We enjoyed a few down hills and of course the inevitable uphill before we came to the little green sign that said N-50, meaning we were only 50 kilometres from Norseman and hopefully, some smooth bitumen road. We stopped at the 50 km sign and took a break all the while enjoying the silence of the bush which was only punctured by the calls of the local bird life as they went about their day.

We had decided to look for a campsite and then ride into town the next day, so as the sun was starting to make things a little uncomfortable, we began looking in earnest. We eventually spied an area where the trees appeared to have some nice deep shade, so after finding a way into the bush we went found ourselves a row of trees that would give us shade as the sun took its westerly course.

Our campsite was very pleasant but we had to move the tent from its semi shaded spot because we had plonked it down near a nest of very large green bummed ants, who would charge at us if we came too close. Despite being in the shade, the temperature was a warm 35 deg C and short nap in the tent impossible because the temperature in there was more akin to a sauna. So grin and bear it we did, and took the opportunity to take our minds off of the heat by pulling the multi-fuel burner apart for to clean it. After eating we packed up and went to bed, lying in the heat of the tent and waiting for the Easterly breeze to come through and cool the place down like other nights, although tonight it was running late.

Today's Stats

From: Disappointment Rock 84 kilometres from Norseman.

To: Bush Camp 28 km W of Norseman

Ride Time:
5 hrs 17 mins

Distance:
56.38 km's

Av Speed:
10.6 km/h

Max Speed:
33.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
402 m

Max Climb: 5 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Sunny & Hot 36 deg C. Slight E Headwind.

Sunday 19 November 2006

Unlike other mornings, the sunrise today was nothing to brag about, but the birds were chirping away nicely as we awoke with sore legs and the anticipation that precedes arrival in a town. Today was our last day on the dirt road and it would be a bitter sweet feeling when we finally hit the tar.

The road was mostly downhill today and after a few little roller coasters we came to the heavy haulage by-pass that takes the trucks away from Norseman and up to Kalgoorlie. A couple of short sharp hills made us work overtime but the thought of a smooth road and the promise of a cold chocolate milk at the end saw us ascend them at a slightly faster rate than normal.

We took a short break at the top of one of those short sharp hills before dropping over 70 metres in height in about 100 metres of distance. What made this particular descent so memorable was not only the dramatic drop in height over such a short distance, but the fact that it was around a corner, on gravel and full of corrugations! Do we brake or not was the the thought followed by - too lat-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-e! We were down the hill, around the corner and braking for the Gem Fields rest area where we took a short rest, had something to eat and did a little exploring for agate which the area is known for.

A short push on and another downhill and there before us was the salt lake - Lake Cowan, the road cut through the last hill and providing a funnel into the dry, salty lake. The slightly raised road travels about 5 kilometres through the lakebed before one small and final ascent up into the streets of Norseman. So while there was the chance I rode out onto the Lake Surface to experience riding on it and to take a few photo's of being on it.

Joanne climbs out of Lake Cowan and up into Norseman

We had done it, we had covered the 300 kilometres of dirt, the feeling of completion a mixed one of euphoria that we had done it, a feeling of relief that the bone jarring corrugations and energy sapping sand drifts and hills had ended, and sadness that the isolation and beauty of the bush was behind us.

We are taking a few days off in the Norseman caravan park, which at $18 per night is very good value considering we have an excellent undercover area and a fully equipped camp kitchen at our disposal. Physical rest, clothes washing, mail collection, trike maintenance and checking, re-supplying and re-stocking for food etc are all on the agenda before we hit the road and cross the Nullarbour.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 28 km W of Norseman

To: Norseman

Ride Time:
2 hrs 24 mins

Distance:
28.99 km's

Av Speed:
12 km/h

Max Speed:
41.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
385 m

Max Climb: 6 %

Av Climb: 2 %

Weather: Sunny & Hot 35 deg C.

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