Monday 16 July 2007

Today's Stats

From: Gravel Pit

To: 3 km S of Carmacks

Ride Time:
2 hrs 55 min's

Distance:
36.94  km's

Av Speed:
12.60 km/h

Max Speed:
67.0  km/h

Max Altitude:
673 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 6 %

Weather: 15-21 Deg C. Overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 62:04'04.4"

W: 136:17'00.7"

Tuesday 17 July 2007

The rain eased overnight and we awoke to blue skies and no hint of rain. Martin had already left for work and his other half was still asleep after working until the wee hours, so we packed up and got on our way. The road was undulating but we seemed to be riding through a valley, the tall sparsely covered hills next to the road and the hills on the other side across the valley floor, partially obscured by the trees. The sun was up but not able to cover the road with warm sunlight as the hills were blocking it, making for a cool ride.

Climbing and descending our way through the valley, the sun eventually gained enough height to bathe the road in warm sunlight and allowing us the thaw out slightly. The wind started to build up and before we knew it we were battling a cool and rather strong headwind. Wild strawberrys still growing along the side of the road and occaisionally the sweet smell of strawberry was wafting up to meet us and making our mouths water.

Some 30 kilometres after we left Martin's place we came to the remains of Montague Roadhouse which had originally been built on the other side of the highway in 1900, only to burn down, and in 1909 the replacement also suffered the same fate. What remains on the site now is the replacements replacement which was built in 1915 and used as a roadhouse until 1950. The kitchen and eating area downstairs and the bedrooms upstairs, cheesecloth used to line the interior to lighten the building and to stop the moss and dirt on the roof from falling into the rooms.

History lesson for the day over we moved on towards Twin Lakes, the road taking us through a recognised Elk area, but unfortunately we didn't see any.

Continuing to battle the headwind we came to the Twin Lakes Campground where we pulled into for a look and to enjoy our lunch in the kitchen shelter. The campground overlooks one of the two lakes and has one of the most beautiful views. During lunch we discussed the trip to Whitehorse and decided to stay the night at Twin Lakes, the thought of more kilometres into that headwind the deciding factor.

Today's Stats

From: 3 km S of Carmacks

To: Twin Lakes Campground

Ride Time:
3 hrs 44 mins

Distance:
46.0  km's

Av Speed:
12.20 km/h

Max Speed:
32  km/h

Max Altitude:
694 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 6 %

Weather: 9-25 Deg C. Sunny then Overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 61:42'10.9

W: 135:56'15.9

Wednesday 18 July 2007

Finishing early yesterday allowed us to get quite a few things done and to rest the legs some more, and an early night was also on order. Resting peacefully until around 1 am when the whole campground was woken up by some clown who tried to turn his vehicle around where he shouldn't, got himself bogged and then spent his time revving his engine and spinning his wheels, digging himself deeper into the ground and everyone's bad books. He eventually extracted himeself with some help from a nearby camper and peace again fell upon the area.

Early in the morning we woke again but this time to the bugle like calls of the Moose in the area. The mating season is near and they were calling each other from across the lake and then something was having a bath on the shore of the lake near our tent. The birds in the area also joined in and it was quite pleasant dozing to the sounds of nature.

Getting up to clear skies in the direction we were heading was a bonus and we were able to dry the tent as we ate breakfast. Heading out of the campground it was so tempting to hit the airzound (airhorn) as we passed the tent of the clown in the truck, but taking the moral high ground was nicer.

The road continued to wind its way up the valley, plumes of mist rising out of the bush from where the water was flowing making for an interesting sight. The sun was up but not far enough and riding in the shade was quite cool, occasionally we would burst into some sunlight and actualy slow down to enjoy the warmth from the suns rays. Eventually the road got to the point where we had to cross the range and some some more hill work was required. Passing anumber of lakes was also a pleasant experience, the clear water reflecting the range and trees in the background and ducks with ducklings swimming on the lake with the reflection making it seem like the world was upside down and they were swimming in space, and beavers dam blocking the creek making for many stops along the way.

Arriving at Braeburn Lodge we stopped to enjoy their famous large cinnimon scrolls. Allegedly large enough for 4 people we bought one to share along with a cold chocolate milk to help wash it down. The scroll certainly was large and despite getting sticky stuff everywhere, we are happy to report that their famously large scrolls were no match for two hungry cyclists.

The chat with some people off of a tourist bus was interesting, especially as they all wanted to know what our trip entailed. People often ask and telling them where we started and where we are going often makes them gasp at the thought of it and you can almost hear them thinking that all of a sudden their trip seems insignificant (as they often comment), so we always try and make sure we ask them about their trip and add the necessary gasp's to help them feel better and excited about their trip again. Chat over and then it was back on the road to cover todays distance.

Up and over another range with its treeless hills covered in bright pink fireweed, courtesy of the 1998 fire which was allegedly started by careless campers, then stopping at the top to read the information boards on the fire before heading down towards some more lakes and eventually arriving at the very long and picturesque Fox Lake. Wild strawberrys again growing along the side of the road, their sweet smell again making our mouths water.

Travelling along the side of the lake, the road, perched on the side of the hill and separatedonly by the arnco railing and drop to the water, we had a front row seat.

Arriving at the Fox Lake Campground we called it a day, selected a nice site near the shelter (in case of rain) and right on the shore, the water lapping away as we set up camp.

Today's Stats

From: Twin Lakes Campground

To: Fox Lake Campground

Ride Time:
4 hrs 45 mins

Distance:
61.09 km's

Av Speed:
12.8 km/h

Max Speed:
45 km/h

Max Altitude:
987 m

Av Climb: 1 %

Max Climb: 6 %

Weather: 11-24 Deg C. Overcast with sunny breaks. Headwind.

Camp Location:

N: 61:42'10.9"

W: 135:56'15.9"

Thursday 19 July 2007

It is not often that other campers get on our nerves enough to force me out of bed, but the family from hell that had camped a short handgrenade throw from us finally severed my nerves around 11.30pm. The final straw was when they moved next to our tent to try fishing so I rose out of bed to fix the noise problem. Parents not controlling their kids and kids who knew that and were taking advantage of it were the problem. Kids running around yelling, not doing as they were told, fighting and generally being kids is one thing but this lot had been at it since 4.30 in the afternoon, didn't eat until 9.30 pm and when I finished the issue it was 11.30 pm. Suffice to say, the tounge lashing I gave the man and then calling the family an out of control zoo was enough to immediately silence the whole family and send them all off to bed. Within 5 minutes not a sound was heard except for the moose calling to each other again across the lake.

Waking to a cool morning and with no sight of the members of the zoo, we packed up and headed off along the road as it ran up along the hillside and following the lake. Heating up with the climbing it was time to remove the outer layers that we had put on to keep the cool at bay, but this not only kept us cool as we climbed but it tried to freeze us, sweat turning into cold water and causing us to shiver on the downhills in the cool single digit temperature, the sun having not made it over the top of the range. Riding through this area was very scenic and some of the mountains still had small patches of snow hanging on for dear life.

Eventaully arriving at the turnoff to Lake Lebarge, made famous by Robert Service in his poem - The Cremation of Sam McGee, the final paragraph of which reads "The Northern Lights have seen queer sights, But the queerest they ever did see, Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge I cremated Sam McGee. - Robert Service." we turned off the highway and headed down the hill to the lake.

Enjoying the downhill towards the lake we arrived at Mom's Bakery, a home based business where we bought a large cinnemon scroll and a loaf of bread. Continuing on we roding past the shacks and houses and arrived at Lake Lebarge and the campground. Lake Lebarge is actually part of the Yukon River, but has widened to form the lake.

We strolled around looking at the very pretty lake and mountains in the background and looking for something on Robert Service and or the poem, but found none. Finishing our cinnemon scroll we rode the 3 km back out to the road and continued ontowards Whitehorse, capital city of the Yukon and sister city to Eucha in Australia.

Climbing to the top of a hill we were able to feast our eyes on the mountains in the background and the valley below, we were about to commence our descent towards Whitehorse. The sun was starting to heat up and we came to some roadworks and a lady holding a stop sign. Waiting at the front of the line for our turn to traverse the roadworks I smelt more wild strawberrys so got off the trike and found them on the roadside. Picking some and enjoying them must have looked funny to the people in the cars lined up behind us, but who cares, the strawberrys were delicious.

Stopping for lunch with about 20 kilometres to Whitehorse we ate the whole loaf we had bought at Mom's Bakery and then commenced our ride into town. The approach to Whitehorse was about 12 km's long and almost every business had a billboard for us to read. Needing a 20" tube to replace the last one we used on Joanne's trike when the valve stem decided to let air out we found the bike shop but were unable to get a tube. The bike shop sure smelt good as they had a coffee roast and shop in the back.

Riding off to another bike shop (of sorts), the rain began to fall. Eventually arriving at Phillipe's Bicycle Repair Shop, located in a house with old tubes and rims for a fence, we were shown around the place by the owner and after he blew the dust off the box, we had a replacement 20" tube.

We then tried ringing the number of the man on the warm showers list that we had arranged to stay with but with no luck, so we rode on and took a room at the Busy Bee Backpackers where we will be for the next two days while we prepare for the next part of the trip.

Today's Stats

From: Fox Lake Campground

To: Whitehorse

Ride Time:
5 hrs 38 mins

Distance:
79.82 km's

Av Speed:
14.10 km/h

Max Speed:
58.50 km/h

Max Altitude:
974 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 10 %

Weather: 7-25 Deg C Overcast then sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 60:42'49.9"

W: 135:03'11.7

Friday 20 July 2007

Rest Day in Whitehorse.

An interesting development in our travels was decided and booked today. We have decided to touch the Pacific Ocean at Skagway thereby completing the Arctic to the Pacific leg of our trip. So rather than continue on towards Watson Lake and then down the Cassier Highway, we intend to ride to Carcross, south of Whitehorse, then take the scenic train trip down to Skagway where we will board a ferry for the three day, two night trip down the Inside Passage to Prince Rupert. From Prince Rupert we will ride back up to the Cassier Highway and continue on from Smithers. This detour allegedly allows us to visit some of the most magnificent country Canada has to offer and to take the world acclaimed trip down the Inside Passage. It also allows us to get off the trikes for a few days before tackling some of the most scenic and demanding terrain British Columbia has to offer.

Saturday 21 July 2007

After our first visit and stay at a backpackers hostel we can report that we enjoyed the experience. It was nice to have the full range of amenities as in a house but without the motel room price tag. We had a double bed in a room with another set of bunks and a bunk above us. All of the bunks were full each night and although a little different, in many ways it was like being back in the Navy onboard a ship.

Leaving the hostel this morning we headed off towards Carcross where we will catch the train through what we expect to be a very scenic area and down to Skagway. What we realised when were heading out of town was that in all of our rushing around to change our itinerary, shopping, trying to retrieve a food drop from our old route and booking the various bits of our new one, that we didn't really get to see Whitehorse and its many attractions, so at some stage we will have to return to do that. In the time that we did spend there, we noticed that the city has maintained its old time look in its main street, it has all the shops and fast food outlets of a city, it sits on the banks of a river which runs between and at the base of mountains.

A few kilometres out of town we took the scenic road down the Miles Canyon, a canyon created by lava from a volcano many years ago, and one which now has the Yukon River running through it. Climbing back out of the canyon area we again joined the very noisy and busy Alaska Highway, and remained on it until we came to the turnoff to Carcross.

Riding towards Carcross with the mist covered mountains was pleasant despite the cool temperature and the absence of campsites.

An opportune meeting with a lady heavily laden and cycling towards Whitehorse allowed us to discuss camping opportunities and after another few kilometres we found the rest area at the old Robinson Roadhouse site. No sign of bear activity and we declared todays ride over. Sitting and writing journal entires we were joined by a Dutch couple on bicycles who were also on tour. They inspected the Robinson Roadhouse site and had a chat with us before heading off towards Whitehorse.

Today's Stats

From: Whitehorse

To: Rest Area - Robinson Historic Roadhouse

Ride Time:
3 hrs 32 mins

Distance:
41.67  km's

Av Speed:
11.70 km/h

Max Speed:
58.50 km/h

Max Altitude:
969 m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 12 %

Weather: 11-16 Deg C Overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 60:26'55.8"

W: 134:50'47.8"

Sunday 22 July 2007

Overnight we were joined by two vehicles who also enjoyed the rest area for a free overnight camp. Waking to a clear morning in the shaddow of Mt Lorne and with around 40 kilometres to ride into Carcross we took our time packing up and heading off.

Turning our first corner we were greeted with snow covered mountains to feast our eyes on as the legs did some hill work. Winding its way through the valleys and generally climbing the road took us through some beautiful areas, the mountains all around us with their tops partially obscured by cloud. Small pockets of sunshine on some providing us with views of the snow that still adorned them like a crown. Not long before we arrived in Carcross we came to one of the most beautiful lakes we have ever seen - Emerald Lake. The road passes high above the lake providing all that travel this way with a birds eye view of the beautifiul emerald green water and the lucky people who have houses overlooking the view.

Riding into Carcross we stopped for a look at the Carcross Desert, a sand patch that resembles a desert and which is the result of a glacial lake drying up and leaving behind the sandy bottom.

A bit further on we passed the approach to the gravel runway, the mountains all around becoming clearer as the sun took hold and cleared the skies. Carcross is a small community and one that now thrives on tourism. Arriving in town we found a town centre of a number of buildings including a church, RCMP station, railway station, visitor information centre which is located in the original train station, the general store (oldest operating store in the Yukon) and what was the Caribou Hotel, now derilict and all boarded up. The approach sees a service station come RV park and the rest of the town is houses. All of this is located opposite a lake and the whole town is surrounded by mountains, making for a very rustic, old-time looking place in the middle of a beautiful setting.

We took a ride around town and bought an ice-cream before heading back out of town and turning down the road right alongside the runway to where we found the campground. Tree'd sites with tables and a fire pit at each one, bear proof litter barrels, firewood and toilets nearby, and a water point that was empty. Riding the 1 kilometre back into town saw us pick up enough water for a day or two before we went back to the campground and set up camp.

We're in Carcross a day or two early as we don't catch the train to Skagway until Tuesday, so we will spend a relaxing couple of days here first.

Today's Stats

From: Rest Area - Robinson Historic Roadhouse

To: Carcross

Ride Time:
3 hrs 10 mins

Distance:
40.05  km's

Av Speed:
12.3 km/h

Max Speed:
53 km/h

Max Altitude:
959 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather: 11-21 Deg C Overcast then sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 60:10'28.3"

W: 134:42'04.2

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