Monday 11 December 2006

As is often the case, our bush camp was both peaceful and restful and we were lulled to sleep by the sound of rain on the tent. We awoke however to a dry morning but with the wind already up and ready to give us a workout.

Up and down the hills we went until we came to the Yalata Roadhouse and Caravan Park - or what was. On our last trip we stayed in the caravan park and enjoyed our stay, on this trip all we got to do was to inspect the boarded up premises and chat with a couple towing a caravan who also stopped in for a look. The couple also told us that Mal and Lee were still back at Nullarbor and that one of them might be sick as nobody had seen them yesterday. Both of us thought of them and hoped that they were okay.

The roadhouse was all boarded up with the exception of the old storeroom, main shop and the toilets which someone had made sure were open. We had a look around the back and found the caravan park, motel style and single cabin accommodation and the various stores and storage areas. The Police Station next to the roadhouse was still there and operational, but the roadhouse, compared to last time was deathly quiet and eerie, the only sound being the wind blowing through the bowser area. Fuel bowsers gone and only the hoses and power cable coming out of the ground to show where they once stood under the large driveway roof. Also gone was the vibrant energy that came with the many cars that would arrive with Aborigines from the Yalata Mission, overloaded and not a seatbelt in use in sight and including the dogs, and the occupants who would spill out onto the pavement leaving those watching to wonder how that many people could get into a car like that, and how, right next to a Police Station, they could get away with it, and no windscreen or muffler. Gone was the energy of the kids all running into the shop and around the place with gay abandon, totally oblivious to the rest of the world or the travelling public. I stopped and remembered the little girl Joanne told me about in the toilets on our last trip, who was just standing there on the toilet seat and flushing the toilet for something to do, and I wondered where she was and what she was doing.

We rode off feeling a little sad because of the demise of Yalata and for some time afterwards were both wondering how possible it would be to resurrect it, would we be able to do it, what restrictions would the mission put on you etc, etc. Seems strange that we would both feel so strongly about it and that made us wonder if we really should try and do something about it - but what of this trip?

The hills became not so steep but in many cases just as long, the vegetation became more and more cleared as farming took over and that of course allowed the headwind we had been battling into to increase. The truck driver we met at Mundrabilla came along and we had a brief chat and with enough time to wish each other a safe trip and "see you next time", before lack of range on my little radio cut us off.

Many people can attest to the old road, the one that was dirt, up until 1969 that is, and as we neared Nundroo we could see it running parallel to the new one so at one of our breaks we walked over to it to take a look and upon seeing it it made us grateful for the road we had, despite it's course nature.

The wind was increasing in strength and we were down to 9km/h as our knees protested with every pedal stroke and more so for the last 5 kilometres into Nundroo due to the total lack of vegetation along the side of the road. So after an interesting day and a hard won 67 kilometres we took refuge in a room at the Nundroo hotel/motel.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 15 km W of Yalata.

To: Nundroo

Ride Time:
5 hrs 41 mins

Distance:
67.33 km's

Av Speed:
11.8 km/h

Max Speed:
35.4 km/h

Max Altitude:
44 m

Max Climb: 5 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Sunny 27 deg C. Strong SSE headwind.

Tuesday 12 December 2006

Following on from our day of headwinds we had a little sleep in this morning and feeling refreshed left Nundroo with a very cold Easterly headwind which managed to dampen our spirits and cause the knees and legs to ache. Shortly after leaving Nundroo the road was again taking us through very open stock and crop farms, and then came some hills.

Today was not much of anything really, we were just battling into the wind with the aim of getting to a certain rest area just before Penong, but the way the first 30 kilometres went we both wondered if we would even get there today - it was very hard going.

We passed our last trip campsite up on the top of a cutting and then found a nice little rest area at about 31 kilometres so we stopped for a coffee and something to eat. A lady came in with her car packed to the rafters and with a dog, small child and baby. I considered how brave she was to be travelling across here on her own with two small children and admired her for doing so. Fuelled up and feeling slightly better we rode on, passing the turnoff to Fowlers Bay, a place we ad been hearing off for some time now. Fowlers Bay is supposed to be serviced by a dirt road but the start of it was tar and for a second or two we considered a side trip.

The wind eased somewhat and later on changed from ahead to a side wind making life a little more pleasant. This section of road caused us to ride up and down the hills with nothing to shield us and the sun coming out even stronger and at one stage Joanne looked skyward and noticed a large ring around the sun. We were not sure what it was but surmised that it might have been smoke haze from the devastating bush fires in either Victoria or Tasmania. I tried to get a photo of it but it didn't come out. It was here that we passed a sign advertising 500,000 acres for sale, but looking at the state of the land you'd only be buying 500,000 acres of dead grass an a lot of heartache.

About 15 kilometres out of Penong we located the rest area we had been heading for and realised that the last 20 kilometres had not been so bad, though the knees and legs probably wouldn't agree with us.

Today's Stats

From: Nundroo.

To: Bush Camp 15 km W of Penong

Ride Time:
5 hrs 24 mins

Distance:
64.41 km's

Av Speed:
11.9 km/h

Max Speed:
31.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
0 m

Max Climb: 6 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Sunny 34 deg C with strong E headwind turning SE later on.

Wednesday 13 December 2006

Communing with nature often has it's rewards and surprises. Our campsite was home to quite a number of magpies, parrots and a type of minor bird, none of which were too scared of us, especially the magpies who came and walked around us and our belongings looking for anything they could eat. This arrangement was fine until during the preparation of our evening meal, they decided to perch on a branch directly over the top of the pot. This resulted in a well aimed stick winging its way towards them to remove them - just in case. The other interesting part of the camp was that whilst sitting in the trikes we looked down to see a brown snake, about afoot long, slither across the camp and no more than 3 feet in from of our feet. Up went the feet to let it pass and an eagle eye cast over the surrounding area to see if mummy or daddy snake were out with junior.

We awoke to a cool 12 degree morning and two other campers in the rest area. One, a man driving a Winnebago with sons in tow made his presence known as he innocently walked back and forward from his camp to another imaginary interest, all the while watching us pack up. Eventually Joanne ended his frustration by talking to him and providing him with his cue to come and discuss what we were up to.

Packed up and on the road, we covered the short distance into Penong where we bought some supplies, including for the first time ever, water. We did ask in the general store and the service station but were told that the only water the town has is what came from the sky and they didn't get much this year, so rather than argue the merits of it all and the fact that the town is known for it's 100 windmills which pump water from the ground, we just bought 10 litres and added it to our existing supply. This would give us enough for the rest of the day, an overnight stop and then the short distance the next day into Ceduna itself.

Our goal today was the old rest area 35 kilometres from Ceduna, and campsite that we found on our last trip, so after climbing the long hill out of Penong we made good progress to cover the 40 kilometres required. The wind was from the side and sometimes from behind, weak and not enough to keep the flies out of our face and not enough to keep us cool, so it was no surprise that the fly nets came out and we climbed many a hill sweating profusely. An old Telstra tower indicated that we were near our intended destination and after enjoying an easy downhill we had arrived. We rode into the bush along a track and easily located our last campsite at which we would have camped at but for the lack of shade, a condition we didn't have to worry about last time we rode through here because of the cold and overcast conditions we experienced.

Campsite selected we spent the afternoon discussing our plans for Ceduna and beyond. Arrival in Ceduna will see us officially off of the unofficial "trip across the Nullarbor" despite the Nullarbor itself being only 20 kilometres of the trip from Norseman to Ceduna. 

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 15 km W of Penong.

To: Bush Camp 35 km W of Ceduna

Ride Time:
3 hrs 40 mins

Distance:
53.9 km's

Av Speed:
14.60 km/h

Max Speed:
35 km/h

Max Altitude:
104 m

Max Climb: 6 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Sunny 37 deg C with SW side wind.

Thursday 14 December 2006

Our campsite last night was as peaceful this time as it was the last, camping in exactly the same spot was good fun and brought back nice memories, but the afternoon and evening's build up to today's rain was not so pleasant and we both spent the night without the need for bedding. We awoke early and to a very overcast sky.

With the usual eagerness of arriving somewhere, we set off towards Ceduna, the road slightly wider courtesy of some Federal funding, and providing a smooth trike wide strip for us to ride on. We eventually crested a hill and could see Ceduna, the bay and the very large wheat silo's on the horizon.

A turn into the wind for the final 5 kilometres and we arrived at the Quarantine Station where the two men on duty said that they didn't want to inspect our bags because they doubted we would have and fresh fruit or other goods they should confiscate, so after a short chat we were on our way into town, providing the locals with something new to look at.

Ceduna was just the same as we remembered it from 5 years ago, the same shops and same large Aboriginal population wandering the streets. A stop at the Tourist information centre provided some answers to questions about where to stay, another certificate for riding across the Nullarbor and some information on the next part of the trip. In less than a kilometre we were at the same caravan park as last time, the new owner greeting and sorting things out for us. A couple of days off here will see us relax, figure out where to go next, re-stock supplies, conduct trike maintenance and sort out the mail. We are off the Nullarbor.

For those interested, I have finally got around to adding maps to the relevant stages of the Nullarbor trip.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 35 km W of Ceduna.

To: Ceduna

Ride Time:
2 hrs 25 mins

Distance:
36.65 km's

Av Speed:
15.1 km/h

Max Speed:
30 km/h

Max Altitude:
86 m

Max Climb: 4 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Overcast and rain. 20 deg C. SSE side wind.

Friday 15 December 2006

Today was our rest day in Ceduna. So what do we do on our rest day? We do the laundry, trike maintenance, Internet functions, sorting and re-packing panniers and the trailer, shopping and some pouring over some maps to decide on our next route. Stay tuned to find out what we are going to do.

Saturday 16 December 2006

Another nice stay in Ceduna, but it was time to hit the road again. So after getting up when we woke up we got ourselves on the road  and were battling the wind once more. After 5 kilometres and passing the Ceduna Airport, we turned off the main highway and down the Eyre Peninsular towards Streaky Bay.

With the wind not quite in our face we made good time despite the rolling hills that seemed to be more up than anything else, the tops of which afforded us vistas of the open farmland which stretches right to the sea, and in many cases literally right up to the sand dunes.

We passed the turnoff to Laura Bay and like always, added it to our list to visit when we have our motorhome to travel in. It's a silly notion really because we could have ridden the3 kilometres down for a look but just couldn't be bothered really. After 40 kilometres we stopped at the turnoff to Smokey Bay and enjoyed lunch and a coffee before continuing on.

The road remained the same roller coaster ride with a small strip of bush running along both sides of it to separate it from the farmland which looked so dry it is any wonder that they were able to grow weeds let alone wheat. Atop the hills was always a nice view to the coast and the beautiful turquoise colour of the sea.

On our last trip we had camped at in the town of Haslam, and it was our intention to do the same this time. There is not much at Haslam except a very small town, camping area ($5 per night) and a jetty where they used to load wool and grain on the clippers that used to ply their trade along the coast. The camp area has been moved up away from the beach onto what looks like the old railway siding or station and is more suited to caravans and motorhome's these days, but like always, we managed to find ourselves a little spot. The area comes complete with clothes line, fire pits, rainwater tank for visitors and toilet (concrete water tank separated in two for his n' hers) and it is all near the boat ramp and old camping area with a million dollar view.

Today's Stats

From: Ceduna.

To: Haslam

Ride Time:
5 hrs 31 mins

Distance:
72 km's

Av Speed:
13 km/h

Max Speed:
25 km/h

Max Altitude:
0 m

Max Climb: 8 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Sunny 32 deg C. SE side/headwind

Sunday 17 December 2006

Like our last camp at Haslam, this last night's visit was not only uneventful but peaceful. We awoke to a cool morning with little to no wind. The beach was empty and the ocean flat compared to the white tops whipped up by yesterdays on shore wind. We rode out of town while the town slept in on a Sunday morning and headed off towards Streaky Bay.

The initial 15 kilometres were hard going and it seemed that our get going had got up and gone while we slept, the legs didn't want to work and it was hard to get a riding rhythm going. The road was quiet and as uneventful as our camp last night, the farming still right up to the road and the road a ribbon of ups and downs.

Not far from Streaky Bay we crested Perlubie Hill and there before us was not only Streaky Bay and Eba Island, but the now populated Perlubie Landing, which on our last trip just had a sign selling the land and a magnificent view of the bay. Now there are many homes perched spread throughout the area, many perched on vantage points to take in the views. Off in the distance and to the left of Eba Island, one could just make out the town of Streaky Bay and the large wheat silo's that guard the entrance to the town.

With the expectation and promise of an icy cold chocolate milk we eagerly rode off towards town trying to cover the 20 kilometres as quickly as possible, and , but the eagerness was soon knocked out of us as we climbed the hills that the road threaded itself through, the legs returning to their normal rhythm as did the breathing. We eventually rode into town, got hold of that icy cold chocolate milk and then found the waterfront park near the jetty where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and a rest.

The temperature was starting to climb once more, so as we wanted to get some more kilometres in before we stopped for the day, to headed out of town. We passed Eyre's water hole which is recorded by Eyre as being one that never dried up, but as we had visited it on our last trip we decided to keep riding. The weather was really starting to warm up and so after 25 kilometres found a rest area which unfortunately for us was of no assistance for a campsite, but, out the back of it was a dirt track, possibly the old road, or farmers track so we followed it and low and behold, some half a kilometre later we located ourselves some nice shade and a campsite. As is our usual ritual, no sooner had we stopped the Kettle went on for a coffee which we enjoyed with a packet of ginger nut biscuits before we sat in the shade to complete our respective journals. 

Today's Stats

From: Haslam.

To: 35 km NW of Port Kenny

Ride Time:
5 hrs 29mins

Distance:
73.8 km's

Av Speed:
13.4 km/h

Max Speed:
40 km/h

Max Altitude:
58 m

Max Climb: 5 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Sunny and hot 43 deg C. SE wind

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