Monday 27 November 2006

There is a something very pleasant about a night in the bush and we awoke to grey sky and it was our the hope for  a cool day. The road was reasonably good but the wind then came up and slowed our progress. Not long after we started riding around 5 am, we came across a car parked in the bush on the side of the road which looked like it may have run off of the road. We called out to the woman who was standing next to it but she told us that they were just sleeping.

The vegetation started to change and was becoming more and more sparse, the trees disappearing, the bushes becoming smaller or non existent. The vegetation was becoming more and more nullarbor-ish. The road kill was thick and not to mention smelly, along the road. Plenty of kangaroos were out bouncing along in the paddock and the crows and wedge tail eagles were breakfasting on last nights road kill.

We came up to a fresh kill and noticed that there was a couple of eagles near the carcass, one feeding and one guarding. With the wind in our faces we snuck up as close as we would dare before they flew off, so at the appropriate moment we stopped and just in the knack of time managed to get this shot as the larger of the two took off, we felt so privileged.

The wind was continuing so we again took it in turns to ride in front allowing the other to draft and rest. Before we knew it we had covered 45 kilometres and were enjoying a coffee at the Baxter rest area. We pushed on into the wind , the truckies waving and being courteous to us.

After another 30 kilometres we came to the Dumblegaby Rest area, nothing to speak off except for a large roof and a water tank. The temperature was around 40 deg C so the roof was very nice to sit under and turning the tap on the huge water tank provided water at the rate of a very small dribble. It's been a while since the roof has collected water to fill the tank.

While sitting under the roof, in the middle of nowhere, we had a number of visitors, one of which was kind enough to give us 2 litres of fresh, cold, Melbourne water (the second best in Oz he said), but he gave us another bottle of frozen water - worth it's weight in gold and then some to hot  cyclists.

Mal and Lee came in around 3.30 pm and spent some time filtering water and resting etc before the wind got up and they decided to call it a day.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 71 km's E of Balladonia

To: Bush Camp 40 km W of Caiguna

Ride Time:
6 hrs 9 mins

Distance:
72.98 km's

Av Speed:
11.8 km/h

Max Speed:
17 km/h

Max Altitude:
174 m

Max Climb: 4 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather:  Overcast and then hot and sunny 40 deg C.

Tuesday 28 November 2006

The sound the wind makes as it rushes across the open plain is not unlike that of a train approaching at speed, and in the early hours of this morning it was deafening. The weather was closing in and right behind the wind was the rain, or so we thought. We closed up the tent in preparations for a most welcome down pour, but it never came. Two storms moved across the area with their thunder and lightening but went right around us, only dropping enough rain to settle the dust. In the tent meanwhile we lay there with visions of a lazy day in the tent or at least under the large expanse of roof used to collect water and feed the water tank as the pack of dingo's nearby howled at the lightening.  Caiguna was 40 kilometres away and would wait for another day.

Some time later, a quick inspection outside showed the most magnificent sunrise and the rain from the storms in the distance highlighted by the fire red sky as the sun rose. The view from the tent looking to the east and the large roof and concrete tank was spectacular enough to get me out of bed for just a few minutes with my camera in hand. A short sleep in and it was time to make a decision on today's activities. Both of us felt like a day off but at the same time wanted to get to Caiguna for a shower, laundry and something cold to eat and drink. We decided to pack up and move under the roof while we ate breakfast and joined Mal and Lee at the single table. A pleasant chat with them over breakfast before they headed off into the strong Easterly headwind that was blowing and the already 31 deg C temperature. We on the other hand, watching them head off, promptly decided that it was too hot and that we couldn't be bothered fighting the wind and the sun today so the ice-creams etc at Caiguna would wait until tomorrow. Wondering what the heck we would do for the rest of the day we settled in for a day of sitting in the shade and watching the traffic go by as the hot (35 deg C at 9 am) Nullarbour wind blew over us. As the day went on we wet our bandannas and placed them over our heads as we lay on the cool concrete below the roof, and the wind blowing over the wet cloth made us feel like we were in air-conditioning which was most pleasant.

Not long before we pitched the tent under the tin roof the wind changed from the NNE to an Easterly and really whipped up causing us to ensure we had the tent pegs well and truly in the ground, then using some large rocks and a piece of tin we created a wind proof kitchen to ensure we could cook a meal. We were exposed to the road but didn't care because after watching the clouds build and build, something told me we would be better protected from the rain than the wind and the passing traffic.

The cool change came and was announced not only by the wind, but by huge bolts of lightening streaking across in such numbers that it was like the flash bulbs on the so called stars as they walk down the red carpet on Logie night, and as the wind blew stronger and we lay in the tent wondering if we would get any sleep at all. In the early hours of the morning the rain finally joined the weather party and the old tin roof we were under began to collect water and feed the tank behind us. Sometime during the night one interstate truck that had come in around 8.30 pm left and was replaced by another and it seemed that if the weather continued we might be enjoying another day under the roof, this time trying to stay warm and dry.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 40 km W of Caiguna

To: Bush Camp 40 km W of Caiguna

Weather:  Hot and Sunny 38 deg C. Strong Easterly wind.

Wednesday 29 November 2006

Following last night's change in weather and subsequent downpour we awoke to a clearing sky. The kangaroo that had been visiting the area to drink out of the birds water trough (a plastic pencil box left by someone and filled with a rock and spilt water from the tap) had returned and was drinking out of the puddle made by the overflowing gutter some 20 feet away from us. My imitation of a kangaroo call was enough to make it leave the water and head for the relative safety of the surrounding bush, and so, with skies clearing to just overcast, we made the decision to ride the 40 kilometres to Caiguna for that cold drink.

The road was still wet from the downpour last night, the wind in our face and the traffic light. Plenty of road kill to ride past as we went and before we knew it we had ridden half of today's distance. The truckies banter on the radio was mostly decent and the usual toots etc came in reply to our waves as they sped past. Joanne and I again took turns at riding in front to break the wind for the other as the vegetation became sparser and sparser and the wind stronger. The march flies, or horse flies, as some would know them  began to muster their attack squadron and would wait until there was more than 6 of them to launch an attack on me somewhere. In the meantime Joanne was having a good laugh at my flailing arms as I swatted at them to try and keep them at bay, occasionally managing, much to my delight, to kill one as it settled on my arm or even my mudguard.

The cloud was starting to burn off as we made our way and before long had been replaced by sunlight and an ever increasing temperature. With 5 kilometres to go we arrived at the Caiguna Blowhole, a sub-terrain link with the southern ocean some kilometres away and where wind has been recorded at 72 kilometres per hour as it exits the earth. We stopped to a photo or two and then headed off the last few kilometres to Caiguna, the end of Australia's longest straight road and the first corner in 146 kilometres (90 miles).

Our memory of Caiguna was a little better than the actual as we arrived. We looked out the back to where we had camped last time only to find a dust bowl and a run down caravan park that no self respecting caravanner would stop in unless they had had the misfortune to break down near here. Wanting a shower, to do laundry, have a meal etc we reluctantly booked a tent spot and were debating where the best spot (if there was one) would be to put the tent so as to minimise the outback blowing in with us, when Mal walked down from the room he and Lee had taken last night. They had battled on after leaving us to cover the 40 kilometres and had arrived sometime in the afternoon and as someone told them it was 47 deg C they had taken a room rather than camp in the dust bowl we were about to. Having seen their room and knowing that there were backpacker dongers (a small room just big enough for a single bed, wardrobe and desk - but air conditioned) for $40 I went back to the roadhouse and swapped the tent site for a donger.

Mal and Lee were about to head off into the heat, dust and wind as we were finishing. Being low on food, and unable to obtain necessary supplies, they need to ride every day, and as they don't like getting up early (who does?) and they ride slower than us, they have no choice but to ride all day including during the heat of the day - we wonder how they do it and admire them for their tenacity. We wished them well and went for a shower and to get the washing done, then it was time for food and a cold drink. Before we could have a shower or do the washing we had to use the cans of fly spray left outside, to kill the millions of blowflies that were congregating near the door and inside because it was cooler, to not have done so would have meant sharing the shower or laundry with literally hundreds and hundreds of the buzzing buggers.

The rest of today was taken up with a nap in the air-conditioned donger, catching up on journals and relaxing then  before a meal in the roadhouse. We also took advantage of the abundance of phone booths to call family and let them know we were still alive, and to call Bob to arrange a food parcel drop at the Madura roadhouse on Saturday.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 40 km W of Caiguna

To: Caiguna

Ride Time:
3 hrs 10 mins

Distance:
40 km's

Av Speed:
12.7 km/h

Max Speed:
17.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
218 m

Max Climb: 3 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Overcast then sunny and hot 40 deg C.

Thursday 30 November 2006

After a good meal of Satay Chicken and Shepherds Pie and veggies ($31) in the roadhouse last night we went back to our abode and spent very restful night until we awoke around 3 am. So after a little nap we got up at 3.45 am, packed up and got on our way around 4.30 am. The sun had beaten us up but had little punch at that time of the morning, so after handing the key back in we rode off in the cool 12 degrees of the morning air. Plenty of kangaroo's bouncing along in the bush and crossing the road, the little Joey's leading the way in a couple of cases. Around 2 kilometres from Caiguna we had to advance our watches by 45 minutes to the new time zone. The time zone was allegedly created because of the telegraph operators who were sitting at arms length in the same room passing messages from West to East and vice versa with all the messages being affected by the time difference from either end. Eventually the two ends agreed to split the time equally and thus the 45 minute time change is required.

We made good time  in the cool windless morning and despite the very open and treeless terrain easily covered the 65 kilometres to Cocklebiddy where we stopped for a cold drink and an ice-cream which we eagerly devoured while sitting inside in the roadhouse air-conditioning, despite it only being 33 degrees C outside. We moved on with the aim of getting to a campsite we had used on our last trip which we found after 76 kilometres. We also noticed Mal and Lee's distinctive tire tracks leading in and long the track but then before they had found the best part they tracks turned and went out again.

Having located our old campsite we decided to rest there while the heat of the day passed and strung the hootchie between two trees to help with the shade, ate lunch, had a coffee, chat and a snooze before deciding to take advantage of the tailwind that had sprung up, after all 10k's done today is 10 we don't have to do tomorrow. We climbed the small hill near the turn off to the Eyre Bird Observatory (located in the old Eyre telegraph station on the coast and down a 35 km dirt road) before deciding, as the mercury topped at 42deg C,  to find a spot out the back of the large rest area.

Today's Stats

From: Caiguna

To: Bush Camp 84 km E of Caiguna

Ride Time:
6 hrs 7 mins

Distance:
84.84 km's

Av Speed:
13.8 km/h

Max Speed:
25.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
148 m

Max Climb: 8 %

Av Climb: 2 %

Weather:  Cool 12 deg C then hot and sunny 42 deg C with NW tailwind

Friday 01 December 2006

 A pinch and a poke for the first day of the month and no returns.

We always enjoy the peace and tranquillity of a bush camp and last night's camp was no different. We awoke early and managed to sneak a 15 minute snooze before getting ready for another day on the road. The bush was very still and silent leaving and almost eerie feeling about it, and the plague of flies that caused us to abandon a cooked meal in place of sandwiches and a can of creamed rice last night had not thought to come back and so we were able to eat breakfast outside of the tent and in peace.

We rode off and as usual the kangaroo's were out for their morning bounce. The road surface was good and we were moving into grass plain country where there is little in the way of trees or bushes so it was a good thing that the wind was not in our face.

After 50 kilometres we came to a rest area at which we had camped out the back of on our around Australia trip.  The only table there is right at the start of the area and is directly in the wind, so utilising the large rocks from some one else's fire as a wind break on the table we boiled the kettle for a coffee and took a rest. The vegetation has improved slightly now and with only 25 kilometres to Madura and our food parcel pick up tomorrow, we were tempted to stay the night out the back like last time, but the reminder from Joanne that if we got closer we could have a sleep in in the morning and then a leisurely pedal to Madura afterwards was enough to get me to pedal on to where we found a nice bush camp about 5 or 6 kilometres from the roadhouse.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 84 km E of Caiguna

To: Bush Camp 5 km W of Madura

Ride Time:
4 hrs 42 mins

Distance:
67.32 km's

Av Speed:
14.3 km/h

Max Speed:
23 km/h

Max Altitude:
145 m

Max Climb: 3 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Overcast then sunny. 28 deg C. Southerly side/tailwind.

Saturday 02 December 2006

As we did not want to get to Madura to early, our bush camp just 5 or 6 kilometres away allowed us the rare luxury of a sleep in which we put to full use and we got up at the decent hour of 6.30 am. A short climb up to the the edge of the Hampton Tablelands allowed us the wonderful view of Madura and the Roe plain below. Overcast skies prevented fabulous photo's but we were afforded the view of the plain and the road as it follows the escarpment east for the next 177 kilometres to where it climbs back up at Eucla.

We rolled down the pass and into the roadhouse where we found Mal and Lee in one of the rooms following a rest day. We took advantage of their amenities and not only filled our water containers but enjoyed a quick shower and a cup of coffee. Whilst outside putting something away a man drove up and started asking the usual questions about distance etc and went on to explain that he was driving around the country as a break from his business - making movies. A short discussion followed as he passed on a few tips about filming our trip, especially the Alaskan leg of it for "the networks". An exchange of details and he left.

We waited for the truck to arrive that was supposed to be bringing our food parcel, but when it arrived there was no parcel. We called our friends Bob and Julie who told us that it definitely got sent, so as the next delivery truck arrives next Wednesday there was nothing to do but leave our details with the new managers and ask them to get the truck to deliver the parcel to Eucla so we could ride on.

Mal and Lee had left before us but after 11 or 12 kilometres we caught them up and passed them. Some 25 kilometres after Madura was the Moondini Bluff and a rest area which we had seen on our previous trip across the Nullarbor so we stopped for a break, lunch and a coffee. It was here that a man in a caravan came across and swapped a cold can of Pepsi for a photo of us and our trikes- fair swap I guess.  Mal and Lee came in not long after and after a short chat we headed off into the wind until we found ourselves a nice protected campsite away from the road and it's noise. Mal and Lee came in shortly after and there are two vehicles (presumably camping) out the back as well.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 5 km W of Madura

To: Bush Camp 44 km E Madura

Ride Time:
3 hrs 59 mins

Distance:
50.25 km's

Av Speed:
12.6 km/h

Max Speed:
38 km/h

Max Altitude:
104 m

Max Climb: 14 %

Av Climb: 2 %

Weather: Overcast then sunny 30 deg C. SSE  side/headwind

Sunday 03 December 2006

 In preparation for our Alaskan trip Mother Nature laid on a brisk 5 deg C for us to pack up in this morning. Mal and Lee were still snuggled up in bed and nowhere to be seen as we headed out of our bush camp dressed for the first time with a coat on, the coat lasting all of two and a half kilometres before we declared it too hot for wearing.

The terrain was reasonably flat and that of course allowed the wind to give us something to concentrate on as we rode, the vegetation sparse and getting worse. A number of kangaroo's were spotted today, some bouncing along in the bush at the same rate as us, mainly mothers being led by their joeys and all of them looking for a place to cross in front of us at some stage.

The ever present escarpment on our left was about the only thing of interest today and it was interesting to see the different types of vegetation along it, especially as next to the road for a hundred metres of so was nothing but salt bush. We climbed up a rise and around a few corners and there was the burnt out wreck of the car we had heard the truckies talking about on the radio yesterday, so it will no doubt be added to the list of the many that are off on the side of the road and listed as another one that "didn't make it".

The kilometres were passing slowly with the wind keeping us down to a slow speed, not to mention the wash from the many on coming trucks as they made their way to Perth. The wind was also causing our knees to complain so there was nothing to do but drop down a gear to ease the pressure on the joints, and grin, bear and get on with it.

We passed the area where there used to be water tanks and where we had hoped we might pick up some water, not to mention visit memory lane from our last trip across the dreaded "Nullarbor". It would appear that all the tanks bar one have been removed, probably in the interests of public safety, something they were put there for in the first place. Unfortunately not only is there the risk of someone using the water, getting sick and suing the Government or the nearest Station, but the travelling public really do make a mess of the area, going to the toilet where they feel like and leaving the toilet paper to blow around the place like confetti and generally making a terrible mess.

Nearing our destination we came across two trees covered with boots and shoes including high heels, ugg boots and all other manner of footwear, the tree next to it starting to collect underwear and the like, and a little further on a tree with a male and female scare crow, bottles, a child's bicycle, cd's and all other manner of goods. Obviously the travelling public or maybe the locals from Mundrabilla needed some entertainment on this part of the road.

We eventually found the rest area we had been aiming for and were glad to be able to stop following our hard fought distance, the wind continuing to blow just to remind us it was there and would be again tomorrow.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 44 km E Madura

To: Bush Camp 10 km W of Mundrabilla Roadhouse

Ride Time:
5 hrs 51 mins

Distance:
66.8 km's

Av Speed:
11.4 km/h

Max Speed:
14.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
0 m

Max Climb: 5 %

Av Climb: 1 %

Weather: Sunny 30 deg C. NNE Headwind

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