Monday 13 August 2007

As we went to bed last night I had a mental picture of a clear, sunny day in my mind for tomorrow, but on waking this morning it was apparent that the weather had a different picture and idea - rain, albeit light rain. Not to be deterred we rolled over and snuck in another 30 minutes sleep, hoping that when we woke, the weather would have changed its mind, which it did, sort of.

Riding off down the road under grey overcast skies with large, dark grey rain clouds building all around us and with enough spray off of the trucks and semi-trailers passing to make us wet, we started towards Prince George. Undulating its way along the road was making us work for our distance, the scenery again very bland in that it was more open farming and or dead and dying spruce trees, testing our mental ability to hold it all together and to get on with it. We had been seeing signs warning our fellow road users and us to be on the lookout for moose, but none seemed to want their photo taken today, choosing instead to remain out of sight which was hardly surprising with the amount of traffic on the road.

Cresting a hill we were presented with a sign informing us that we had made it to Prince George. With my good camera put away out of the weather I took a short video of the sign using the helmet cam.

We had planned on staying at the campground on the outskirts of town as it was near shops, or so the advert said, but the shops turned out to be a service station with a few other shops attached, all with a limited range of overpriced items on their shelves. So as we were in need of supplies and with no other choice, we ended up coasting down the kilometre of so long hill to some more suitable shops. Of course by then the idea of riding back up the hill to the campground did not thrill either of us, so we rode a little way up and with the rain clouds circling again, booked into a cheap and cheerful motel before the rain began to fall.

Today's Stats

From: Bednesti

To: Prince George

Ride Time:
3 hrs 28 min's

Distance:
49.74 km's

Av Speed:
14.2 km/h

Max Speed:
66.0 km/h

Max Altitude:
837 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 9 %

Weather:7-21 deg C. Overcast and Wet.

Camp Location:

N: 53:51'44.0"

W: 122:47'50.0

Tuesday 14 August 2007

It was a real foggy morning that greeted us as we awoke in our cheap and cheerful motel room this morning. Rolling down the hill to the shops once more we obtained a few more supplies before attempting to negotiate the roads through Prince George.

The early morning traffic was quite easy to get through and before we knew it we had found the East side of the city and were working our way up the L O N G hill, past the jail and eventually topping the hill near the airport, a wonderful view of the city in our mirrors causing us to stop and take a few shots. Leaving PG behind, the scenery was already nicer than the last few days and as the sun burnt the fog off, lots of clear blue sky and sunshine filled the day.

A roller coaster road made us work for our distance yet at the same time gave us an easy ride, making us work hard on the uphill's and then allowing us to coast and rest on the downhill's, kilometre after kilometre slid past and before we knew it the grumbling of our stomachs reminded us that it was time for lunch. Stopping in a gravel pit entrance we boiled the billy and enjoyed lunch with minimal traffic passing to annoy us.

Working our way towards McBride we stopped for an afternoon tea break and it was here that we noticed that Pip had another broken spoke. Deciding to replace the spoke at our campsite we were about to ride off when Joanne informed me that the shock cord on her seat had broken and that meant that we needed to fix it before riding on, which we did.

Arriving at the Bawron River rest area we noticed a track off to the right which led down to a concrete pad, once the foundation to some sort of a building. We decided then to make this spot our camp, but before we set up etc we needed to fix the broken spoke on Pip, clean up, cook our meal, filter some water from the river and get our journals done, so rather than do all that at our camp, especially the cooking, we rode across the road and down the small hill to the rest area and did it all there. Once done, we rode back over up the small hill and across the road and set up camp, well away from any cooking smells that might attract the local bear population. Our camp is not quite a nice as the rest area next to the river, but with no camping signs and of course others and their cooking smells, we feel safer where we are.

Today's Stats

From: Prince George

To: Bawron River Bush Camp

Ride Time:
4 hrs 29 min's

Distance:
67.20  km's

Av Speed:
14.9 km/h

Max Speed:
58.5  km/h

Max Altitude:
818  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather:7-29 deg C. Fog then sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 53:53'48.6

W: 121:59'15.3"

Wednesday 15 August 2007

Waking to a 4 deg C morning is not something we have done for a while, but with clear blue skies and the promise of a nice sunny day for riding, the cool temperature was a minor issue. We packed up and moved out of our camp spot and into the sun and enjoyed breakfast and at the same time allowed the warming sun to commence drying a few things out.

We didn't know it but hill climbing was going to be the theme for today, we gained and lost altitude all day, starting from when we crossed the Bawron River just a few hundred yards from our campsite. The hills on either side of the road were covered in trees and the sides very steep indeed, steep enough to have a couple of ski runs on them, the runs all green and the ski lift sitting idle awaiting the white powder that would mean work. Climbing a hill we were passed by a car which then slowed and eventually stopped, two people got out, reached into the back, got their camera's out, took some shots of us and then, like they didn't want to be seen, raced back to put the camera's back and got back into the car. Having seen them increased speed until I could pass the car, as I drew level the drivers window came down but not a word was said. Then as I got in front of it and before Joanne reached it, the car took off with a squeal of the tires and was gone. Strange people!

The sun was gaining strength as the day wore on and the further we went the more cyclists we saw, first there was one, then another, then a couple, and so the story went on, more and more of them were going the opposite way, waving and yelling out "awesome", "cool", fabulous!" as they passed. None were carrying any equipment bar a water bottle so we figured that they had to have a support vehicle somewhere behind them. We met a young American cycling to Prince Rupert and the first words he said were "I've heard about you two", and as it turns out he had been told about us by Pat and Ralph, who were already in Jasper! Talking with this guy also meant that we found out that the group cycling were raising money to buy Bibles to send to Africa.

Pressing on we climbed and climbed and climbed one of the longest hills that we have ever climbed, the road stretching ahead up to the sky and never seeming to end, and just as we thought we had got to the top, the road took another turn and went up and around again, so it was timely that when we did get to the top that we stopped for lunch which we hoovered down like we hadn't eaten for a week, followed by a mug of hot chocolate, complete with marshmallows.

With scenery that was pleasant but not that great we rode on, eventually arriving at a nice rest area, complete with toilets, tables, litter barrels and of course the river passing right next to it. The only thing that spoilt it was the sign that said "Please limit your stay to 8 hours - No Camping". Well, in an RV that is not a problem but for us it is a different story and one that I shall not labour on.

A Steller's Jay, the official Provincial Bird of British Columbia came to see what scraps it could get then after realising that there were slim offerings with us, took off to find richer pickings.

Being in need of drinking water we filtered some water from the river before taking a walk around to see if there was somewhere that we could hide and camp but there wasn't, and then just as we were leaving a couple who were picnicking nearby offered us a muffin, apple and banana, which we took with thanks. Little did we know how important that gift of food was going to be. Leaving the rest area it would be another 24 kilometres of hills before we eventually found somewhere that we felt would be safe enough to camp at.

Not too far from our eventual campsite we spotted this little brown head, ears and two dark eyes looking up over the bank on the other side of the road, bambi was eating grass there and had looked up to see what the strange noise was as it approached, so with the helmet cam going I rode over to see if I could film it, and sure enough, there it was just ten feet away from me, starring at me and wondering what it should do. Then suddenly there was a movement in the bush and bambi sprang off into the bush with its three mates. We rode on, the hills in the background getting bigger and more impressive as we rode, some snow still on some and all with the promise of good photos and viewing tomorrow.

Not far from where Bambi was feeding we spied a road and a building that looked like a telephone exchange of some description. Being desperate enough to almost camp anywhere we investigated it and found a nice little spot where the vehicles park, not litter, no bear scat or signs and so the days ride was declared officially finished. Wanting to keep the camp site clean we moved away a short distance where we sat to compile our journals and to cook and eat.

Meal and clean up over, teeth cleaned and all smelly things put away, we went back to our campsite, erected the tent and got ready for a nice sleep. Not long into the dozing stage a vehicle pulled up nearby, then there was footsteps on the gravel, but who was it? A man walked down to where we were camped, walked around our tent, stopped to look at the view for what seemed like an eternity, said "humpf" and then walked back to his slide on, slide off camper and truck and drove off - another strange occurrence for the day. We thought that maybe he had spied this spot earlier in the day or usually camps there when he comes through, but bad luck, because we had it first :-)

Today's Stats

From: Bawron River Bush Camp

To: Telephone Exchange Bush Camp

Ride Time:
6 hrs 30 min's

Distance:
84.74  km's

Av Speed:
14.9 km/h

Max Speed:
58.5  km/h

Max Altitude:
892  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather:4-31 deg C. Sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 53:39'58.2"

W: 120:54'21.5"

Thursday 16 August 2007

WIth no other visitors during the night we both enjoyed a good sleep and awoke to the sun starting to come onto the tent (a dry tent for once) and a relatively strong wind. The sun was making the surrounding hills look blue as its glare removed our ability to see the details. Packing up and getting on with the ride the strange sound from the front wheel made me stop for a look, it was almost flat. So rather than getting on the road early we fixed a flat tyre, the culprit being a small thorn type object.

Having fixed the flat tyre we enjoyed a good down hill run (for once) which was slightly unusual for us as we more than often end up camping at the bottom of a hill. Of course there was the obligatory L O N G uphill which followed and the normal up and down rhythm of the road became the norm once more, but for some reason I was really struggling this morning and even the downhill's were a hard, a struggle I put down to the headwind and yesterdays longer than anticipated ride. Joanne on the other hand was going well and couldn't understand what the problem was. The problem was that I had been slightly over zealous with the disc brake adjustment last night and was not only fighting gravity but my brakes as well!

Riding along the Robson Valley with the Rocky Mountains on the left and the Cariboo Mountains on right was particularly nice, especially when some snowy tops and hard chiseled faces came into view. What wasn't so nice was the road kill, which looked very much like a wolf, or what was left of one.

Cresting a hill we spied a large black object crossing the road a few hundred metres ahead. It has been a few days since we had had a bear slighting, so today's was particularly pleasing, except for the fact that we didn't get time to get a photo of it.

A L O N G 6% down hill run brought us to the Goat River Rest Area, so not feeling like riding much more we took up residence, despite the No Camping sign. Spending the day compiling a shopping list for our re-supply in McBride, checking out the maps for items ahead, filtering water and generally relaxing. With an expected 30 deg C temperature the cold river will be pleasant when the heat gets up.

Today's Stats

From: Telephone Exchange Bush Camp

To: Goat River Rest Area

Ride Time:
2 hrs 16 min's

Distance:
30.80  km's

Av Speed:
13.5 km/h

Max Speed:
60.50  km/h

Max Altitude:
977  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 17 %

Weather:10- 31 deg C. Sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 53:29'41.7"

W: 120:36'22.0"

Friday 17 August 2007

Camping next to the river is always a pleasant experience and sitting in the shade of the forest on the upper level of the rest area with the river running past below with sufficient noise as to cancel out any traffic noise was just wonderful. A number of other travelers came into the rest area, some with the same intention as us - to stay. As the evening came in there was a large bus size motor home and us left - talk about the opposite ends of the accommodation scale.

Climbing into bed we were unaware of the large clouds and rainstorm that were building around us and around 9.30pm the rain started, drumming on the tent roof and even drowning out the sound of the raging river below. Of course, not to be out done, the thunder then started to roll around between the hills that surrounded us. The storm lasted around an hour and a half, gradually moving away taking the thunder and lightening show with it. What really stood out during the storm was how pitch black the night was, a stark contrast to a couple of months ago when we had 24 hours of daylight.

Waking to lighter rain drumming on the roof around 5am we rolled over and snuggled back into our dry, warm bed, figuring that we would attend to the day when it became lighter and perhaps stopped raining, which it had around 6am.

Emerging from our tent we found clear blue skies and the world drying out. Packing the tent up wet is never a nice thing to have to do and we were counting on being able to spread it out in the sun later on, and if that were not possible then we would just have to put it back up wet.

Coming out of the rest area we were immediately into a climb and one that ended up going for over 6 kilometres and taking us over the 1,000 metre level once more. The scenery was pretty much the same forest view but then, as we commenced our first small down hill there was some snow capped mountains in the Cariboo range to enjoy.

Twisting and turning, rising and occasionally falling we eventually found ourselves turning into McBride, complete with being chased by a rotweiller dog whose owner had as much control over it as anyone else. The dog decided to have a go at me, but some stern words and a blast of the air horn soon made him think twice, but then he decided to chase Joanne. As Joanne slowed down and the dog approached I sped up, yelled at the dog and hit the air horn for a long blast, resulting in the dog abandoning its attack and heading back to its useless and embarrassed owner.

Arriving at the McBride visitor information centre, which is housed in the old train station, Joanne went inside while I sat guard with a view right down the main street.

McBride, with its painted blue footpaths, is a quaint town nestled up against the side of the mountains that form part of the foothills to the Rockies. Its the sort of place where nobody locks their car, old timers wander around talking to anyone about the good old days, everyone says hello to everyone and the only job the local Police have is booking the occasional outsider as they speed past on the highway.

With 170km to Jasper shopping for supplies, getting a shower - our first in 3 days, and getting our washing done were our priorities, so moving onto the RV park just out of town we got a site that backed onto the Fraser River - the worlds best salmon river, according to the sign on the bridge out of town, and commenced out chores.

But today was not going to be that easy, lazy sort of a day where we could get things done at a nice pace. Getting to our site we wanted to dry the tent etc out before we did too much, but there was a rain squall and thunderstorm approaching, and fast. So with split second timing we managed to dry the tent and get it up, get our bedding and things inside just in time as the thunderheads gathered and then the wind and rain came in. And the same pattern went on a number of times during the afternoon. We would start to do something and the weather would build, threaten and dump as we retreated into the tent, then the weather would clear and we would emerge to get a little bit more done, and the weather would come in again, and so the cat and mouse game continued.

Today's Stats

From: Goat River Rest Area

To: McBride

Ride Time:
3 hrs 9 min's

Distance:
44.51  km's

Av Speed:
14.10 km/h

Max Speed:
64.0  km/h

Max Altitude:
1035  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather:10- 25 deg C. Sunny then rain

Camp Location:

N: 53:18'00.7"

W: 120:07'30.5"

Saturday 18 August 2007

With one eye open and still half asleep the rain falling on the tent was enough to dampen the spirits and justify a small sleep in. By the time we were ready to get up the rain had stopped, the sky, though overcast over the mountains was clearer in the direction we were heading. The mountains across the river behind the campground were grey and forbidding and blending into the sky, the snow a dull white and the normally green tree 'd mountain sides a hazy dark green.

As usual the first 10 kilometres was a bit of a struggle as our legs warmed up and the muscles loosened and as we gained our riding rhythm. An undulating roller coaster ride heading towards a sunnier sky ahead and leaving the dark grey rainy sky over McBride was our office this morning. Open farmland with hay bales in the paddocks with mountain backdrops were providing us with a nice view and even a rainbow graced the sky for a brief period. The road sandwiched between the Cariboo Mountains and the Fraser river on our right and the foothills to the Rocky Mountains on our left, we were riding down the valley.

With the weather forecast being a 60% chance of rain, we were heading for Tete Juane Cache, an old time location of which there is little left these days, and is now home to not much other than a roadhouse, motel and RV park. Tete Jaune Cache is named after an old time fur trader named Tete Juane and his fur cache which was located around here in the late 1800's.

Stopping for a break at a rest area after 20 kilometres we were soon joined by other travelers as they too took a brake from their travels. Another stop after 45 kilometres at Little River saw us enjoy lunch sitting in the sun and with the tent and other items strewn around the car park drying out in the warming midday sun. Of course the rest area was near a river and that meant that it was at the bottom of a nice downhill run, requiring a climb immediately after lunch.

Before we knew it we were descending at a good rate and arrived at the Tete Jaune Cache Lodge, a roadhouse with motel, RV park and restaurant attached and perched right on the side of the Fraser River. The price of a motel room was a little steep but the little one room cabins they have were just right, so we decided to take one for the night, showering in the campground amenities and using the outhouse located nearby we were quite at home.

Taking a walk down to the river and up to the bridge provided us with nice views of the area. The Fraser river is well known for the salmon that make their way back to the streams of their birth, and as such attracts many fishermen and animals that feed on the salmon as they die following their mating ritual.

Today's Stats

From: McBride

To: Tete Jaune Cache

Ride Time:
4 hrs 13 min's

Distance:
62.67  km's

Av Speed:
14.80 km/h

Max Speed:
49.0  km/h

Max Altitude:
959  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 9 %

Weather:10- 23 deg Overcast then sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 52:58'37.6"

W: 119:26'25.2"

Sunday 19 August 2007

Its not often that we decide to take a detour from the main route to visit a tourist attraction but that is exactly what we did today. Joanne had been reading about a place 20 kilometres away where you could see the salmon swimming upstream and spawning, so we decided to stay another day in our little cabin, to unload the trikes and to ride down to Valemount to see the salmon.

Taking the old Tete Jaune road was very pleasant with no highway traffic except for the last few kilometres. Approaching a railway crossing we were lucky enough to be there as the Rocky Mountaineer train went through, its last two cars with their glass roof's for maximum viewing.

Arriving in Valemount it was easy to find the salmon spawning attraction and after parking the trikes in the carpark we were sat on the bank of Swift Creek with many others close enough to almost touch the very large, sick looking fish spawning and trying to swim a little further upstream in the shallow water. These were Chinnook Salmon, the largest of the salmon family and they were among a few that had survived since their birth 4-5 years ago.

Reading the information on them it seems that out of over 2,000,000 eggs that are laid in the creek, only about 1,000 survive; the eggs that mature and that do make it back to the ocean live for around 4-5 years before they instinctivly swim back to their birth place covering about 18-19 kilometres per day; they feed for part of the journey but then stop, making the rest of the journey living off of their body fat, eventually ending up with a red body and a green head; they pair up along theway, the females laying their eggs as they move up the river or creek, the male fertilising them; and then they both die- and so the cycle starts again.

Leaving the salmon to do their thing, we rode back to our little cabin via the old road, stopping to view the old (circa 1953) bridge over the Fraser River and then spending the rest of the day relaxing and preparing for our climb up into the Rocky Mountains tomorrow.

Today's Stats

From: Tete Jaune Cache

To: Tete Jaune Cache via Valemount

Ride Time:
2 hrs 47 min's

Distance:
44.63 km's

Av Speed:
15.9  km/h

Max Speed:
43 km/h

Max Altitude:
937 m

Av Climb: 1 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather:10- 19 deg C and Overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 52:58'37.6"

W: 119:26'25.2"

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