Monday 20 August 2007

Seeing we were about to climb to a point in the Rocky Mountains that is home to the highest Mountain in Canada, we thought that we might make it a short day and ride to the Mt Robson area and camp in the campground. After 5 kilometres under darkening skies and mountains that kept disappearing into the clouds, we came to a point of interest as the sign described it. We had arrived at Rearguard Falls, the highest point in the Fraser River that the strongest of the Chinnook Salmon can reach, but none apparently at that stage of their short lives, have the strength the climb.

After 19 kilometres and one of the easiest climbs we have had, we arrived at the Mount Robson Park and the visitor information centre where the car park was chock a block full of RV's, tour buses and cars. Grabbing some information on the area and then with the car park watching like we were movie stars, we set up and filmed a short grab of us riding past the mountain, before riding across the road to the campground and setting up camp with the weather threatening to rain on our day.

Taking advantage of a brief lull in the weather we walked the few hundred yards to the group camp area where we sat and enjoyed not only a hot chocolate drink, but the ever changing view of Mount Robson, the top of which was obscured by cloud.

Towards the end of the afternoon Joanne decided that we were going to walk the one and a half hour return trip to Overlander Falls, so with camera and bear spray in hand we set off up the narrow bush track, picking and eating raspberries as we went. We also made sure that we were talking loudly and making noise as we walked through the bush, though it is doubtful that any bear in the area would have heard us because of the noise made by the river as it rushed past below the track.

Walking for what seemed like an eternity and with light that was beginning to fade, we eventually arrived at what we thought was the Overlander Falls, the absence of signs making exact identification of the falls hard, especially in a river full of rocky areas, falls and rushing water.

Satisfied that we had found the falls we took some photos and video before heading back to the road where the river running through the canyon was more of a spectacular sight than the falls. Sightseeing over it was time to go back to the campground and to enjoy an early night.

Today's Stats

From: Tete Jaune Cache

To: Robson Meadows Provincial Campground

Ride Time:
1 hr 39 min's

Distance:
19.63 km's

Av Speed:
11.8 km/h

Max Speed:
49.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
982 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 5 %

Weather: Mix of cloud and sun. 11-19 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 53:01'50.1"

W: 119:14'10.8"

Tuesday 21 August 2007

Seldom do we start the days ride with a downhill run and this morning was no different. Leaving the campground our view of Mt Robson was one of a mountain covered in cloud and mist with only the lower reaches of snow visible. Our climb yesterday up to Mt Robinson had been an easy one and not what we had expected, but today's met yesterdays expectation and more. Climbing for the first 15 kilometres we stopped frequently to rest the legs and to take what view there was to see.

Traffic was particularly heavy today with many trucks and motorbikes on the road. Our view out of the office window today was one of stark mountains with small patches of snow. Many of the mountains were covered in trees with the exception of the top third which in many cases was stark, wind swept craggy rock devoid of vegetation and topped with cloud.

Coming into view of Moose Lake with its emerald green water we rode along parallel to the railway, watching the mountains on the other side of the lake and occasionally sighting a nice waterfall. As we moved along the lakes edge we eventually crossed the railway before riding through wet marshy land with small lakes full of grass, ideal for moose, or so we thought, but look as we did, we sighted none.

We were less than 10 kilometres from our planned destination and yet we were exhausted, our legs heavy and our fuel tanks empty, so with a chill wind blowing we pulled into a roadside gravel area next to another crossing of the Fraser River, and sat with our backs to the wind to eat lunch, our sweat from riding cooling and chilling us as we did so.

Finishing lunch and moving on we came around a corner and there was Mt Fitzwilliam directly in front of us, riding up out of the forest and 2911 metres up into the sky. The mountain top was covered with cloud and with a dark shade of colour on the second third, it looked like the clouds were casting a large shadow, but it was just the colour of the mountain. As we drew closer to the mountain we crossed another crossing of the Fraser River and could see the pylons of the old railway bridge that used to cross it. Lake Lucerne came into sight and we could see people at the lakes edge and campsites along the shore.

Entering the campground we did a circuit to find a good campsite, the best of which were along the lakes edge, but with a strong chill wind blowing we reluctantly decided to head into the forest and take a more protected site away from the wind, and the view. It had been a hard days ride and looking at the map showed us why, we had crossed the edge of the Rocky Mountains and were now in the middle of them, some 30 kilometres from Jasper.

Today's Stats

From: Robson Meadows Provincial Campground

To: Lake Lucerne

Ride Time:
4 hrs 8 min's

Distance:
52.91  km's

Av Speed:
12.75 km/h

Max Speed:
47.46 km/h

Max Altitude:
1112  m

Av Climb: 4 %

Max Climb: 10 %

Weather: Mix of cloud and sun. 10-19 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 52:50'59.1"

W: 118:34'30.3"

Wednesday 22 August 2007

Lake Lucerne campground was a scenic and peaceful place as we left this morning heading for Jasper. Rocky outcrops formed the viewing pleasure this morning as we rode along a reasonably quiet highway. The top of Mt Fitzwilliam, the huge sky filling mountain that we were heading towards yesterday afternoon only just visible.

We were heading for Jasper in Alberta, the same province that we left some two and a half months ago, and some 10 kilometres after we left the campground we climbed Yellowhead Pass and at an altitude of 1,131m we crossed the Continental Divide and into Alberta, stopping of course for the obligatory photo in front of the sign. Two more kilometres and we were stopped at the National Park Entrance Gate. All vehicles traversing the National Park are required to pay ($17) for a pass for each day that they will be in the park. Not knowing how long we would be in the park we bought an annual pass which meant that we could stay in the park until the end of August next year. We could have bought a day pass each day and then after we had been in the park for more than seven, swapped the seven passes for an annual one, but we chose to get an annual one which we can always sell or give away when we no longer need it.

Passing through some avalanche areas we could see where the falling rocks had hit the roadway and dug out great gouges as they did so, the protection fence and barriers now in place hopefully to protect us from any falling rocks and causing a narrowing of the shoulder and us to ride closer to the traffic. Signs along the side of the roadway inform that bears are dangerous and if you see one or encounter one that for safety reasons you should stay in your vehicle which caused us to laugh considering our vehicle type. Riding along further we saw our first elk, albeit on the railway line about a kilometre away and causing us to use the zoom lense on the camera to get a photo.

Arriving in Jasper we found a very picturesque town surrounded by mountains and looking slightly like it should be in Switzerland. The railway on one side and the curved street, its shops with chalet type roof's and hanging or window baskets filled with bright red, orange and yellow flowers, but despite the large number of tourists, RVs, tour busses and the like, it had a very relaxed and pleasant feel about the place. As usual we headed straight for the information centre and then it was off to the supermarket to top up our supplies before we ride the 230 kilometres to the village of Lake Louise.

We took a ride around town and then it was then a short 5 kilometre ride out to Wapiti Campground to stay for the night. There is no doubt that this is a tourist town where accommodation in town at many of the hotels is vehemently expensive and well over $200 per night, some B&B's are about half the price of a hotel and a hostel bed around $18 each. Even the $25.95 for a campsite (and shower) at the campground made us wince a bit, and if we had wanted to have a fire it would have cost us another $7.90 for a fire permit. Ouch! We were allocated one of the biker/hiker sites not far from the showers and toilets and close enough to the food hanging frame and bear proof food lockers to hear any action there tonight.

Today's Stats

From: Lake Lucerne

To: Wapiti National Park Campground

Ride Time:
3 hrs 28 min's

Distance:
49.03  km's

Av Speed:
14.10 km/h

Max Speed:
46.50 km/h

Max Altitude:
1099  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather: Mix of cloud and sun. 10-21 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 52:50'21.7"

W: 118:03'53.6"

Thursday 23 August 2007

Ready for a good days ride we rode over to the water fountain to fill up and discovered that Pip had a slightly flat front right tire so we stopped and pulled it all off finding no hole in the tube and no culprit in the tire. Reassembling the whole thing we rode off somewhat bemused.

Climbing was the name of the game again today albeit slight and on a roller coaster ride. Riding up one hill we heard "ding, ding" and a tandem went past loaded with only a couple of panniers. With barely time to say hello the riders cranked it up and disappeared into the distance.

A little while later we were stopped by two motorbike riders from Vancouver. They had see our trikes outside a junk food store yesterday and wanted to have a chat about our adventure. After a good break and a nice chat we rode on and straight into the hills.

Lunch was at Athabasca Pass and Whirlpool Valley Lookout, a commanding view of the mountains and the valley in front of us, many others stopping to take in the view. Riding down into the valley and back up some of the hills we came to the Athabasca Falls, a superb and scary set of falls which we were able to view up close and personal thanks to the excellent walking track that brings you face to face with the falls and the thunder of the water as it pounds down the falls and through a canyon, the spray covering everything in cool glacier fed, turquoise water as it does so.

After the thrill of the falls we rode alongside the river as it made its way to the falls, mountains all around, some snow peaks and glaciers. A group of cyclists going the other way passed us, many calling out as they passed. Descending for once we spotted a number of vehicles parked next to the river so slowed to see what the attraction was. As it turned out it was a herd of mountain goats feeding next to the roadside and totally oblivious to the many people all aiming their cameras at them.

Leaving the goats to their afternoon snack we began the L O N G climb up to Honeymoon Lake Camp Ground where we secured ourselves a nice spot close to the amenities including the shelter, just in case of rain. Camped next to us, but not in camp was a group of people who were on one of those organised bike rides where you pay good money to ride up and down the hills while someone else puts the tents up and makes the meals and carries all the gear in their vehicle.

A quick check of the lake provided a nice view of the lake and the endless chain ridge behind it. Cooking up a good meal we cleaned up, stored our food, soap and toothpaste in the bear proof bear lockers before enjoying a good sleep.

Today's Stats

From: Wapiti National Park Campground

To: Honeymoon Lake National Park Campground

Ride Time:
4 hrs 18 min's

Distance:
50.52  km's

Av Speed:
11.7 km/h

Max Speed:
51.50  km/h

Max Altitude:
1385  m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 9 %

Weather: Mix of cloud and sun. 4-21 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 52:33'23.8"

W: 117:40'49.4"

Friday 24 August 2007

With a 3 deg C morning we left the campsite, the sun still hiding behind the range called the Endless Chain Ridge, its rugged outcrops forming a jagged knife edge along the top and most other campers still in bed. Not far into the ride we took a turnoff and rode the one kilometre long road to Sunwapta Falls, the roar of the water growing louder the closer we got and then the falls came into view.

Leaving the spectacular Sunwapta Falls we climbed and arrived at a mountain names Mushroom Peak where we viewed the peaks and the glacier. More and more glaciers and snow covered mountains kept coming into view and with each turn in the road more came into view, then after a short downhill the road flattened off for a bit as it ran alongside the Sunwaptata River as it headed for the falls.

Climbing up the 2000m high Sunwapta Pass began in ernest, the narrow winding road up visible ahead and looking like it was going to be one hell of a days work. Arriving at a lookout for Mt Kitchener and the huge glacier that came down the side we stopped to take a breather and to rest the legs and lungs.

Continuing to climb we enjoyed views more glaciers and tangle falls, legs and lungs stretching to a new boundary as our bodies adapted to the change in oxygen density as we climbed, never having ridden at this height before.

Our climbing peaked at a lookout over looking Sunwapta Canyon which gave views of the climb and the mountains behind it as well as the upcoming Columbia Icefields. From the lookout we could see the road running away downhill towards the Icefields and the downhill run with its warm pockets of air as we descended was short and fast and back down to the Sunwapta River that is fed from the Icefields.

Riding along the riverside we were enjoying the flat roadway as the mountains and glaciers became larger and larger, dwarfing everything the closer we got. A cold headwind was also building the closer we got and it soon became very apparent that the cold wind was a welcome present from the glaciers.

Approaching the Icefields Visitor Centre more of the Athabasca Glacier came into view and it was possible to view people walking on the surface and the special buses driving on it, taking tourists on the drive of a life time. With the sun beginning to fade the view of the mountains and the glaciers also faded. Riding on another kilometre we came to a tents only campground, and with legs that were heavy and begging us to stop we took up residence in a nice spot with a view of the snow covered mountains and the top of the glacier to help take our minds off of the aching muscles. It had been a great days ride.

Today's Stats

From: Honeymoon Lake National Park Campground

To: Columbia Icefields National Park Campground

Ride Time:
5 hrs 20 min's

Distance:
57.76  km's

Av Speed:
10.8 km/h

Max Speed:
60.0  km/h

Max Altitude:
2004  m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 15 %

Weather: Mix of cloud and sun. 3-20 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 52:13'12.6"

W: 117:12'16..4"

Saturday 25 August 2007

It is interesting how plans can change and today's events were proof of that. Having been late at the Icefields Centre yesterday but wanting to see the glacier up close and personal we packed up and rode the kilometre ride back to the centre.

At the centre we met two people (Don and Sue) from Perth Australia who were touring with friends (David and Hilda), and while I went on the glacier tour Joanne spent some time talking with Tom and Rob, two other recumbent riders.

The glacier tour involved a bus ride out to the glacier where we transferred from the bus to a glacier crawler, a large bus mounted on huge tires inflated to only 13 psi so that they will spread out on the glacier causing minimal damage. The ride started with a 32% downhill onto the glacier and then a short 20 minute ride to the turnaround point where we climbed down out of the bus and into the glacier itself, the blue ice visible and hard under my feet. The freezing cold wind was howling as it came across the ice which resembled a frozen sea, estimated to be 1,000ft thick, and instantly freezing any exposed skin and therefore rendering our stay on the ice to 10 minutes before we quickly climbed back into the warm bus and refuge from the elements.

Walking on a glacier is a very humbling experience and the thing that really stood out was the sheer size of the thing, and considering that the huge rumbling last night we heard last night as we were in bed was not thunder, but the glacier moving it is not only a spectacular place but a potentially dangerous one. Making our way out of the centre the weather had closed in and a possible improvement the next day we decided to go back to the campground and take refuge for the rest of the day.

Arriving back at the campground we were met by a young man from Tasmania. Miles was on a short cycling trip from Calgary and had also taken refuge from the weather, so after setting up the tent we spent the rest of the day inside the community hut enjoying the warmth from the stove, chatting with the cyclists from Slovenia and with Miles.

Later, and as the night fell we enjoyed a chat with a Laurel, a lady from Arizona who was with a group planning to spend around 18 hours the next day climbing and then descending from Mount Edith Cavell.

Today's Stats

From: Columbia Icefields National Park Campground

Camp Location:

N: 52:13'12.6"

W: 117:12'16..4"

Sunday 26 August 2007

Waking to a 1 deg C morning, fresh snow on the mountains and the glacier rumbling, we made our way out of the camp and to the end of the Jasper National Park and across the line into Banff National Park. The weather was looking like it would be an interesting part of the ride today and fresh snow on the top of the surrounding mountains was a reminder that the weather can and will change at will.

Our climbing continued and we eventually reached the top of the Sunwapta Pass and then began to descend, the cold sweat on our faces turning to ice as we descended the 8% downhill that went for quite some distance. Letting the trikes have their head we reached high speeds as the road wound its way down into the canyon, braking and leaning to one side allowing us to keep some speed up and continue out hair raising descent that if we had been climbing the other way would have rivaled the climb up Atigan Pass in Alaska.

Coming to a bridge over a river we were afforded a magnificent view of Bridal Veil Falls, which was only visible by stopping on the bridge- one advantage of bikes over vehicles. Continuing on down into the canyon the road eventually became a nice long sweeping bend and flattened out which allowed us to look back up to where we came from - whew, what a ride!

Riding through the canyon the weather closed in again and the canyon walls were covered with mist making the canyon walls look like they were on fire and full of smoke, the canyon walls covered with small trees which were growing on every visible flat surface.

Passing the turnoff at the crossing and highway 11 we began another long climb passing the Mistaya Canyon and Howse Pass trail on the way we eventually hit the summit of the Howse Pass before descending past the glacial fed green lake and into the Waterfowl Lake campground where Miles had reached before us and had stoked the fire up in the community hut. Drying out and making ourselves at home we took notice of the signs informing of a bear in the area and made sure that we cooked and ate in the hut before setting up camp and sleeping away from the area.

Today's Stats

From: Columbia Icefields National Park Campground

To: Waterfowl Lake National Park Campground

Ride Time:
5 hrs 16 min's

Distance:
70.87  km's

Av Speed:
13.4 km/h

Max Speed:
72.0  km/h

Max Altitude:
2112  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 8 %

Weather: Mix of cloud and rain. 1-14 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 51:50'46.1"

W: 116:37'31.3"

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