Monday 27 August 2007

Some times listening to your gut instinct, or taking more notice of the events that are happening make being on the road a little bit easier. We awoke this morning after a rainy night, a wet tent and trikes. Taking our things and the tent over to the community hut to dry it out and pack up we put the kettle on and enjoyed breakfast and a hot chocolate before packing up and heading off. Before we even got out of the campground Joanne noticed that she had a flat tire, and then the rain began to fall so making use of the nearest community hut to complete repairs we were unable to find any reason for the flat. Finally leaving the campground we were riding up hill and the weather was not improving - perhaps we should have just stayed put?

We were heading for Lake Louise and it was going to be a wet trip, added to which we had to climb Bow Pass, another 2,000 plus metre pass in the middle. The weather continued to worsen and after 12 miserable kilometres we considered stopping the ride and going back to the Waterfowl Campground, but figured that if we kept going we would at least be keeping warm and the distance forward once done would not have to be re-done, added to that we had Mosquito Creek Campground along the way as a back up.

Beginning to climb the pass after 16 kilometres we noticed that the temperature was dropping and at that time was around 4 degrees Celcius, then what we thought was rain was in fact snow, the cold soft flakes dropping slowly from the sky and the surrounding trees and ground was becoming white. The temperature dropped to 1 degree C and the snow intensified as we climbed. The climb to the top of the pass was around 5 kilometres and took us around an hour, stopping frequently to rest the legs and lungs but not too long as this would mean a loss of body heat and longer in the snow.

I remembered Joanne saying that if it snowed on this trip then she was going home, so halfway up the pass and in the during the heaviest snow I asked her if she was going home, making us both laugh and providing us with a little cheer during this new experience for us both.

Eventually reaching the summit we took the short side road to the car park for Peyto Lake. We had been told that this was a must see on the trip as the water was such a brilliant blue and the surrounding mountains made the view fabulous. A short walk from the car park to the lookout proved exactly what we suspected, nothing to see but snow.

Rugged up and ready for the cold blast a fast descent would provide we left the Peyto Lake car park and began the descent. The faster we went the colder we got, but then as we descended through 1,700m, we noticed the snow was disappearing, the road drying and the temperature not as severe. Arriving at Bow Lake the sun began to come out and its warmth changed the scene completely. The lake, mountains and appearing blue sky were a picture and well worth a stop at the turnout with the other travelers, Bow Summit and its cold snow conditions behind us leaving us to wonder if the snow really did happen.

Bad weather behind us we began to close in on Mosquito Creek, passing many magnificent vistas of mountain tops, snow and glaciers.

Eventually descending down to Mosquito Creek we rode into the campground and found Miles in the community hut with the fire going in the stove. Having been snowed on pretty badly he made it to the campground, got the fire going and got into his sleeping bag to get warm and ward off hypothermia. By the time we arrived he had recovered and was drying his gear out and intending to crack on to Lake Louise.

We also began to dry things out and to enjoy the fire. Miles left to make it to Lake Louise and we took up residence in the hut for the afternoon, a woman, an avid cyclist, coming to talk to us about touring and equipment etc. We would have set up camp in the hut but we had cooked in there and a couple from Quebec had also come in and cooked up a storm so we packed up and found ourselves a campsite, breaking a tent pole for the second time in the process.

Eventually getting the tent up as the cold of the night came down onto the campground we were drifting off to sleep when we heard a loud rumbling and then the sound of falling rock that continued for some time, the result of an avalanche in the nearby mountains. Two more avalanches overnight were heard and we wondered if we would be able to see the results in the morning.

Today's Stats

From: Waterfowl Lake National Park Campground

To: Mosquito Creek National Park Campground

Ride Time:
3 hrs 2 min's

Distance:
36.98  km's

Av Speed:
12.1 km/h

Max Speed:
53  km/h

Max Altitude:
2059  m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 11 %

Weather: 1-10 deg C. Overcast, rain, snow.

Camp Location:

N: 51:37'48.9"

W: 116:19'53.2"

Tuesday 28 August 2007

More avalanches overnight and we awoke to a very cold foggy 1 degree C morning we packed up in preparation for the female cyclist who was coming over to take some photos before we headed off, but she didn't arrive, so we rode over to her camp which was quiet, before riding on towards Lake Louise.

The road to Lake Louise was uneventful and quiet except for the fog and lack of scenery. Descending for most of the way we soon arrived at the junction of the Trans Canada Highway, leaving behind the reasonably quiet tourist highway and joining the rat race again. Riding into the small shopping centre and tourist information centre that makes up Lake Louise village we obtained some information and food before checking into one of the accommodations, washing ourselves and our clothes before spending the rest of the afternoon compiling journals, planning a trip up to the lake and contemplating the net few days ride to Calgary.

Today's Stats

From: Mosquito Creek National Park Campground

To: Lake Louise Village

Ride Time:
1 hrs 49 min's

Distance:
29.23  km's

Av Speed:
16.0 km/h

Max Speed:
51.50  km/h

Max Altitude:
1803  m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather: 1-14 deg C. Fog then sun.

Camp Location:

N: 51:25'51.9"

W: 116:11'04.0"

Wednesday 29 August 2007

Lake Louise is a must see on every tourists itinerary, and it was no different for us. But what took the gloss off it the place was the fact that the village itself is small and has only a few shops with overpriced items ($6 for a meat pie!), and limited accommodation. Requiring laundry, cooking and shower facilities the hiker and or cycle tourist is hard pressed to find the facilities they require in one place and accommodation is either overpriced hotel rooms with no cooking or laundry facilities, or the campground with nothing but a shower available. In addition there are no B&B's or other cheaper more versatile digs in town, and even the hostel is expensive, if you can get in. The village really only supports those passing through after viewing the famous and most beautiful lake.

Taking the day off to look around, we took a taxi for the 5 kilometre uphill to the Fairmont Chateau which is perched on the side of the most picturesque lake you have ever seen. The beautiful green lake sits at the base of the glacier that feeds it and is surrounded by magnificent rock walls and is a photographers dream.

Unfortunately for us, and those who were there today, there were tourists everywhere and taking nice people free pictures was almost impossible. So after a walk around part of the lake and a look inside the very nice chateau where the hotel staff are all dressed in Swiss style uniforms and the shops sell some very nice but extremely expensive items, we walked the 5 kilometres back down the hill to our room and prepared for our trip to Banff tomorrow.

Lake Louise

Thursday 30 August 2007

Its always hard to leave a nice warm hotel room and the comfort it brings, but today's trip to Banff was an important one and one that meant that we were very close to the end of this part of the trip. Leaving Lake Louise and heading for the old highway, we were immediately riding uphill and wondering if we really should have taken the highway.

The old highway runs through some fantastic scenery, the absence of a shoulder bringing the pine trees and the bush much closer to road, providing the feeling of riding a black ribbon through a green tunnel, and every now and then, out of the top of that green tunnel popped an impressively huge hard chiseled rock face attached to a mountain, the colour of which was a stark difference to the green and in the early morning light was magical.

Dotted along the route were various information signs at points of interest which gave us the chance to stop for a break and at the same time learn a little about the area. One such stop was a statue and memorial to the many Austro-Hungarian Canadians who were interned at Castle Rock Mountain Internment Camp between 1915 and 1917, the plaque telling the story and the statue a reminder of the people who spent their time there. For some reason the statue and plaque were covered with Canadian and US small change coins.

Continuing to ride the green tunnel in the cool morning air we were relaxing and really enjoying the low traffic road, occasional hill that made the legs and lungs work hard and the shade of the cool green tunnel keeping us cool despite the sun climbing higher in the sky.

Stopping for a look at the view of Castle Rock Mountain we parked our trikes next to a Honda Goldwing 1800cc Trike that just looked fantastic. The riders, Chuck and Penny were on a trip from Houston and were happy to tell us about the trike and the many items of comfort that they enjoy, including a cold water cooling system that circulates through their bike clothes to keep them cool - wow!

Chuck & Penny

Castle Mountain

Leaving Castle Mountain we continued to ride the 1A and enjoy the views. With a downhill bias the 1A was bringing us to Banff and as we left the National Park we could see the impressive Mt Rundle which dwarfs Banff sitting at its base. A few kilometres on the very busy Trans Canada Highway and we were riding into Banff and to our cabin.

Mt Rundle

Today's Stats

From: Lake Louise Village

To: Banff

Ride Time:
3 hrs 56 min's

Distance:
61.64  km's

Av Speed:
15.60 km/h

Max Speed:
61.0  km/h

Max Altitude:
1548  m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 8 %

Weather: 4-29 deg C. Sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 51:10'54.6"

W: 115:34'08.3"

Friday 31 August 2007

Today was a rest day in Banff and a chance to look around the town. Walking down to the shopping centre we investigated the supermarket, tried to obtain some more tent pole repair sleeves (to no avail), emptied the email mailbox and generally had a look around. Banff is spending 23 million dollars on upgrading the town centre to cope with the millions of visitors that come each year, so the main street unfortunately resembles a building site. The rest of the day was taken up with relaxing and piecing more of our video clips together. As the evening came around the weather closed in and a terrific thunderstorm came through, bouncing around the mountains and dumping rain on the town.

Banff

Saturday 1 September 2007

Sleeping in and taking a very leisurely approach to the day we did some sorting of our panniers and prepared a shopping list to get us to Calgary. Sitting looking at a map of the USA and Canada we tried to decide on whether we want to continue with the trip and if so which route we should take to maximise the warmer and drier weather. Unfortunately neither of us could come up with a decision and so we left the idea for a bit, Joanne taking a walk around town and to do the shopping while I finished the video clips.

Mt Rundle with Banff in the foreground

Banff has been a nice rest for us, somewhere to relax and reflect and tomorrow we ride the last few days towards Calgary, battling the Labour Day long weekend traffic and holiday makers as they enjoy the last few days of their holidays and prepare for school to go back next Tuesday.

Banff itself is a busy place and not unlike Jasper in its make up. It is another one of those tourist towns that is a "must see" on the itinerary, picturesque and expensive, blessed to be geographically located in one of the prettiest places in the world, pleasant on the eye, and a mecca for the tourist crowd.

Banff

Sunday 2 September 2007

Some days on the road there is not much to tell about the days ride, and today is one of those days. We left our sleepy little cabin in Banff just as Banff was waking up, and hit the highway, the Trans Canada Highway, the biggest and busiest highway here. Thankfully, being a Sunday the traffic was light for a while but then as the day progressed it got heavier and heavier.

Riding the TCH itself was not that big a deal, the rolling terrain allowing us to make good time and to view the mountains as we rode. The very same mountains that the last time we saw them were covered in snow, now bare rock, though still magnificent to view but in stark difference to our previous viewing.

Arriving in Canmore we joined the hundreds of people there and found the camp store which, we had hoped, would stock some repair sleeves for our tent poles that have broken, but alas the only things they had were fibreglass replacement poles and or small tent repair kits. A quick check at the hardware store also provided no luck so it was a case of buy a tent repair kit and see how we went.

Leaving town in the midst of the Nordic Games, we decided that as the shoulder was good and we were making good time, to continue on the TCH despite its plainness, rather than take the secondary highway which, although it paralleled the TCH, we were sure would be harder riding.

Stopping for lunch opposite the Lake Des Arcs which unfortunately for us was on the opposite side of the four lane highway and accessible by taking the next exit. Previous to this the highway had been fenced all the way from Banff, a measure to reduce the incidents of wildlife carnage on the road, regular underpasses allowing the same wildlife to cross in safety.

Lunch over we rode on and eventually arrived at Willowrock Provincial Campground where for the princely sum of $20, we got a gravel patch and a table. Showers were an additional $2. Picking out a site we set about repairing the tent poles, getting the tent set up and replacing the spoke on Pip that broke some 5 kilometres before we stopped. We are not being sure why the same spoke keeps breaking so a check of the wheel and surrounding spokes was in order but no abnormalities were found so we'll just see how we go.

Today's Stats

From: Banff

To: Willowrock Campground

Ride Time:
3 hrs 29 min's

Distance:
55.43  km's

Av Speed:
15.80 km/h

Max Speed:
61.0  km/h

Max Altitude:
1375  m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 10 %

Weather: 6-29 deg C. Sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 51:04'57.6""

W: 115:03'23.1"

Monday 3 September 2007

3 months ago today we flew North from Calgary Canada to Deadhorse Alaska, arriving to the chill of the arctic blast before we commenced our trip, and today we are camped at a Provincial Campground just out of Calgary. Where has that time gone and what a wonder all those kilometres were.

With only a short trip planned today we enjoyed a little sleep in before a leisurely pack up. Talking with the ranger last night when he came to collect our camp fees, the safest solution for today was to ride some more of the Trans Canada Highway and turn off towards Highway 1A just before our desired camp. The reason for this was the 1A was supposedly very narrow, windy and has no shoulder, added to which was the fact that half of Calgary would be travelling on the road on the last day of the long weekend and the day before school goes back - so that's what we did.

Riding the fast smooth shoulder of the Trans Canada Highway was pleasant enough and the traffic reasonably light because of our early start. Within no time at all, or so it seemed, we had arrived at the 1X or North Morley Road which would take us to Ghost Lake. Passing through a Native Indian Reserve and climbing a short hill after crossing a smooth reflactive part of Ghost Lake, we were soon on the single, narrow lane that is the 1A. Traffic was polite and for the most part being patient, and the only idiot we saw was someone towing a huge big 5th wheeler who decided to overtake us on double yellow lines on the approach to a blind corner, totally running the oncoming car off the road and no doubt blaming us for the problem they created. The scenery was pleasant farming area type stuff with the lake and Bow River in the valley.

Arriving at Ghost Lake we inspected the very same campground that we looked at on our first drive in a vehicle in Canada some 5 months ago. The place was deserted then, the lake frozen and the snow on the distant mountains a real picture, a stark contract to today with the campground and carpark full of holiday makers, boats being sailed on the lake or used for water skiing, and not a hint of snow on the mountains.

Moving away from the lake side and the road we found ourselves a campsite in the campground area behind the marina and RV storage area. Relaxing in the sun and discussing the trip, catching up on a few tasks and generally taking it easy before our ride into Calgary tomorrow.

Today's Stats

From: Willowrock Campground

To: Ghost Lake Campground

Ride Time:
2 hrs 17 min's

Distance:
36.87 km's

Av Speed:
16 km/h

Max Speed:
50.50 km/h

Max Altitude:
1291 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 11 %

Weather: Sunny 8-29 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 51:13'17.5"

W: 114:43'09.8"

Tuesday 4 September 2007

Today was our last day on the road before we arrive back in Calgary, and it seems only like yesterday that we watched Murray and Joyce roll out of the driveway, their truck loaded with all our gear and towing their caravan, leaving us to wonder about the task that was before them and ultimately - us.

And it was 3 months ago today that we began our trip down the Dalton Highway, through Alaska, across the Top of the World Highway and the Yukon Territory, back into Alaska to Skagway and a trip down the beautiful Inside Passage. Following all of course was the Yellowhead Highway through British Columbia, the magnificent Jasper National Park, the Banff National Park and some more of Alberta. This had been one heck of a trip, and a trip full of wonderful vistas, hard physical work, interesting weather, the full gambit of emotions and of course the experience of a lifetime.

Waking to a very heavy dew we packed up and headed off down the 1A with minimal traffic thanks to shcool and work being back in swing. Stopping for a few last photos of the magnificent Rocky Mountains minus their snow, we found ourselves in Cochrane before we knew it.

Todays ride was a good one, the wind was pretty much at our back for the whole way, the road and traffic was kind to us and it was only the 3 kilometre long 10% grade hill out of Cochrane that seemed to slow us down. The roller coasting and almost flat approach to Calgary with its wide shoulders was a joy to ride on.

The Rockies as we first saw them back in April 07

The Rockies we saw today.

The long climb out of Cochrane was a bit of a struggle and it took us around 35 mintues to climb the 3 kilometres of hill, cresting the top we could see the Bow River way below as it wound its way towards Calgary and Cochrane at the bottom of the hill. The sign said we had 28 kilometres into Calgary and as we crested yet another small hill there it was, the skyline of the city and the recognisable ski jump at the Canada Olympic Park. It was a very sureal feeling to be looking at the city that we flew out of 3 months ago, and as our legs powered us on with a definate purpose and little regard for the terrain, familiar sights kept coming into view and then we were there, rolling down the road to our Canadian homebase. Pulling up in the driveway we were warmly met by Joyce closely followed by Murray. It was so good to be back and back with good friends - we had done it!

We will be spending some time here resting, relaxing, reflecting, maintaining the trikes etc and then the big decision as to what to do next is to be made. Yes, there is a possibility that this will be the end of the line and the incomplete 3 oceans on 3 wheels adventure, but we'll see. Continuing on is dependant on many things, weather; finances; motivation; and immigration to mention just a few, so a stop in Calgary with good friends to discuss things with will provide us the chance to reflect on the trip, review our status, physical, mental and financial, and to come up with a detailed weather strategy (it's Autum already) as well as an immigration (US and Canadian) strategy. It's not over until the fat lady sings as they say, but I can see her standing by the edge of the stage with a foot on the stairs. As the saying goes - watch this space!

Today's Stats

From: Ghost Lake Campground

To: Calgary Homebase

Ride Time:
2 hrs 40 min's

Distance:
44.06 km's

Av Speed:
16.4 km/h

Max Speed:
49.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
1385 m

Av Climb: 4 %

Max Climb: 10 %

Weather: Sunny 8-24 deg C.

Camp Location:

N: 51:06'41.1"

W: 114:12'08.8"

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