Monday 24 December 2007

Setting up camp with some great views of the area allowed us to get some shots of cactus as the sun set for the day, the cactus reaching up into the orange glow of the sun as the last of its rays glimmered in the sky and the cool of the evening settled upon us.

Cooking and eating quickly to escape the cold wind we enjoyed a quick bird bath to remove the days grime before settling into the tent for the evening and an early night as the moons light lit the place up like daylight, our legs tight and sore, thankful for the rest after our first day back on the road after a week off.

The sun was already up and warming the desert as we awoke this morning, a cool 3 deg C enough to have us wearing two layers of clothing, but by the time we had packed up and enjoyed breakfast, the sun was hard at work and we set off down the road heading straight into it.

Passing through Brenda, a small location with a service station, market, small 4 room motel and a couple of RV parks and nothing else to write home about, we descended ever so slightly, but enough to allow us to make good progress while our legs got back with the program.

The road, straight and long disappeared off into the distance where a range of chocolate brown hills extended across the horizon, and where we were going to run out of downhill and would begin to climb. Scattered along the roadside were various places where people were or had been living, ramshackle fibro or wooden homes, huts, sheds and other buildings and a multitude of vehicles, pieces of machinery and other projects scattered around with no apparent order to the property, the place covered in dry desert sand with the occasional plant barely hanging onto life, the lucky ones near the buildings able to obtain some moisture, the rest doomed to a parched life or death.

Climbing towards the small location of Hope we stopped to chat with three guys from Virginia who were cycling the opposite way and following the Adventure Cycling Southern Tier Route. Swapping road tips, accommodation and camping recommendations was fun and then it was time to continue on, they with their gentle downhill and us with our gentle uphill. Passing through Hope with its RV parks and RV sale yards, small motel, shop and "Little Church of Hope", we rode on passing the sign telling us "Your now beyond Hope", and up into the ranges.

Crossing the range with its brown rocks covered with small grassy tussocks, bushes and occasional tree, we were hoping to enjoy a downhill on the other side, but there was to be no downhill, instead the terrain leveled out as we rode towards Salome as the wind gathered strength and came at us from the front.

Arriving in Salome we could be forgiven for mistaking it for somewhere further south, its small homes with their whitewashed walls and orange terra cotta tiles made for a nice view, but the town had seen better days and while some parts looked nice, most of it left a bit to be desired. Looking to fill our water bags for another bush camp we rode around looking to spot a tap where we could get some of that precious liquid, but there was none to be found, then as we were riding back to the service station we spied a wholesale water and ice business, where for 25 cents we were able to obtain a gallon of cool, clear water. Wanting to make sure we had plenty we topped up our containers from our existing stock and then for 50 cents, filled both of our water bags, riding off out of town buoyed with our purchase and ability now to survive more desert riding and camping.

Lunch was a brief stop on the side of the road as it always is and then we rode out into the desert to get some more distance in and to hopefully find a nice campsite. But the more we rode the more our hopes were beginning to fade as the fences were right up to the road and then there was the "Posted - No Trespassing" signs we are used to seeing. On and on and on we rode, enjoying the views of the surrounding hills, the large cactus and the warmth of the suns rays. Thoughts of home, family and friends came through as we rode, figuring that the time was about right for kids to be getting up excitedly about the day and the presents. Hoping that they would all have a great day we secretly wished that we were there with them, but were also glad that we were able to be where we were, out doing what we so love to do.

Passing up some good camp spots for more distance we eventually found a spot near a dry creek just as the terrain and bush to hide behind was getting less and less. Taking a walk around the area to investigate it and then making a quick dash into the bush to set up camp before any vehicles came through.

Today's Stats

From: Bush Camp 5 km's W of Brenda

To: Bush Camp 18 miles South of Salome.

Ride Time:
4 hours 59 minutes

Distance:
68.03 km's

Av Speed:
13.6 km/h

Max Speed:
24.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
586 m

Av Climb: 1 %

Max Climb: 4 %

Weather: 3-19 deg C.
Sunny with cold wind.

Camp Location:

N: 33°38'34.6"

W: 113°21'59.0"

Tuesday 25 December 2007 - Merry Christmas everyone!

The desert is normally quiet at night, but somewhere near us last evening was someone playing Mexican music. A quick check via binoculars failed to identify where they were, and this morning they were still invisible.

Up before the sun we were packed up and riding down a very quiet road. Riding on Christmas Day which didn't feel or look like Christmas was a weird feeling, but mother nature was giving us a present - a tailwind. The cold wind was blowing from behind and helping us along quite nicely as we rode along rugged up with a number of layers on despite the sunshine, the road up and down and coming at us like waves at the beach as we passed through variously named washes, the short downhill into the wash giving some speed and the uphill, usually about 50 feet away, slowing us up.

Reaching Interstate 10 we crossed over on the overpass, the highway quiet except for a few cars and trucks. The road we wanted to take shown on the map as a continuation of the Salome Highway, but with a dirt surface for a small distance. Well, the small distance turned out to be over 12 kilometres as we rode through the desert, wondering where we were going and how long the dirt would continue. The occasional sign, a large range to our right and the Interstate off to our left confirming we were in fact on the right road as we climbed slowly to the range, the cold wind continuing to blow from behind and our wheels kicking up dust as we rode along.

Arriving at the top of the range we realised that we had left the almost lifeless desert floor and were now back in amongst the chocolate brown rocks and cactus. The wind was beginning to pick up as we rode towards Wintersburg where we hoped we would be able to pick up some water and maybe even a spot in the RV park. The wind picking up speed began to blow sand blowing across the road and over us, blasting us and stinging our exposed skin, blowing in behind our sunglasses and into our eyes and filling us up as we battled to breathe while riding, despite using a hand to try as a barrier. Visibility became almost a thing of the past as the sand took over the road and even traffic coming the other way slowed to a crawl.

Arriving in Wintersburg after our sand blasting, we found a bar and grill, store and RV park just a few kilometres from the Palo Verde Nuclear Power Plant, supposedly the largest in the USA. But Wintersburg was closed for Christmas, so we found ourselves a lunch spot out of the wind next to the store and right next to the water machine like the one in Salome. The price of a gallon in Salome was 25c, out here it was 50c! Either way it was just what we needed so along with lunch we filled up with water and headed off down the road - the RV park not taking tents or available because it is run from the store.

Riding and riding and riding we were looking for a campsite but there was none to be found, until that is, we arrived at the intersection at Hassayampa. Here we found a liquor store and two caravans, and a track down to the river that looked a likely spot, but an investigation proved otherwise, so on we rode, up the hill and on towards Arlington, a small hamlet that had nothing but a few houses, an odd looking store and a Post Office.

And then, just as we were getting nervous about a campsite, and after 79 kilometres, we spotted a borrow pit between the road and the farm where they were growing hay. An investigation revealing a spot we could get into with a bit of a struggle, and a further investigation coming up trumps with a nice spot protected from the wind, away from the traffic and overlooking the water channel and the farmland. Setting up camp we settled in for the night as the farmers ran around on their all terrain vehicles enjoying some fun on Christmas Day. Disaster struck in the form of our stove breaking, specifically the multi-fuel burner attachment as we were packing up, and although it is sort of still usable in the short term, it is in need of replacement.

Last year we managed to find some Christmas tinsel on the side of the road and produced a Christmas photo with us holding it. No such luck this year so the best we can do is this - us with the Christmas Cactus.

Merry Christmas!

Today's Stats

From:Bush Camp 18 miles South of Salome.

To: Bush Camp 2km S of Arlington AZ

Ride Time:
5 hours 11 minutes

Distance:
79.33 km's

Av Speed:
15.20 km/h

Max Speed:
40.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
m

Av Climb: 1 %

Max Climb: 8 %

Weather: 7-21 deg C.
Sunny with strong cold wind.

Camp Location:

N: 33°18'15.3"

W: 112°47'31.1"

Wednesday 26 December 2007

Our camp last night was peaceful, but cold. Waking before the sun was up we immediately knew this morning was like no other. The moon roof in the tent was covered in ice, small icicle designs clearly visible, and the tent poles had icicles hanging from them.

Rugging up and getting out of the tent it was equally as obvious that this was the coldest morning we have experienced, a check of the thermometer showing an amazing minus 7 deg C! Colder than Alaska, Canada and the snow we had experienced up North.

Water bottles were frozen and brakes frozen solid on Joanne's trike meant that we had to wait for the sun to do some work on things before we could pack up and get on the road. Our friends Mal and Lee had been reporting similar experiences as they rode through Norway, Sweden and Denmark, so it was interesting to experience some of the same equipment challenges.

Finally underway we rode through farmland where more hay making was underway, then cresting a ridge we could see the ranges ahead and more of the same desert as we made our way down the old highway 80 towards Gila Bend.

Since leaving Wintersburg it has been interesting to see what people are doing out here in the desert, and apart from growing hay and olives, a long brick wall got out attention. A look behind it showed a large canal complex with 1 acre homesite's ready for people to buy. Power no real problem but water? Water out here seems to be provided via bores, electric pumps and long irrigation channels, so presumably the water for the canals and the homes will come the same way.

Finally arriving in Gila Bend we quickly found somewhere to stay and got into the chores, washing, journals and most importantly, pampering ourselves with wonderful soaks in the bath, a shower and clean clothes!

Today's Stats

From:Bush Camp 2km S of Arlington AZ

To: Gila Bend

Ride Time:
3 hours 16 minutes

Distance:
46.4 km's

Av Speed:
14.20 km/h

Max Speed:
43.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
270 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 9 %

Weather: -7-16 deg C.
Sunny with cold wind.

Camp Location:

N: 32°57'31.1"

W: 112°42'10.0"

Thursday 27 December 2007

The cold wind that has been blowing for some time now continued this morning, thankfully from behind, but that did nothing to help our legs that had decided that they were on strike today, or help us with the slightly uphill road we were taking.

We had decided to follow the Interstate 8 rather than go out through the hills, the traffic was exceptionally light and as usual, well behaved. Working its way through the Sonorant Desert (which looked to us like the desert has all along) the Interstate was climbing at around 1%, which in itself is nothing, but that 1% kept going for around 40 kilometres! Ever so slightly and continuously the black ribbon of road stretched out before us, and the scenery didn't change much either.

Ranges on either side as we rode, more chocolate brown rocks and plenty of cactus to look at. Military jets flew along the top of the range to our right, the range being a weapons range and border between the US and Mexico. Both of us wanted to stop on a very regular basis to rest the legs, but as soon as the cold wind from behind hit our wet sweaty clothes we wanted to get going again to warm up. Stopping was cold as was any exposed skin, so riding on was the only solution.

Stopping for lunch was going also going to be a cold and very brief affair until we found a little spot well off the road and behind enough bush to block the wind. Sitting there in the warmth of the sun with our backs to any breeze that might get past the bush, we devoured the remainder of last nights meal from Subway and then very reluctantly rode on.

Our exit from the Interstate came soon enough and there on the corner was an RV park, service station and a motel. Investigation of the motel showed that it had seen much better days, windows boarded up, doors open and nothing to indicate that it was still in business, so we rode on, heading for our original destination the John Wayne RV Park near Standfield.

Covering the last half a dozen kilometres quite easily thanks to a downhill run into the flat bowl of the desert, we arrived half frozen as the wind had been coming from the side thanks to our change of direction. Riding into the barren, gravel park with not a blade of grass to be seen, we booked in and secured a spot for the princely sum of $10 and 66c tax. Sitting here now the wind, despite our half protected position, is very chilly and it is going to be a very cold night.

Today's Stats

From:Gila Bend

To: John Wayne RV Park

Ride Time:
4 hours 44 minutes

Distance:
66.82 km's

Av Speed:
14.1 km/h

Max Speed:
35 km/h

Max Altitude:
412 m

Av Climb: 1 %

Max Climb: 9 %

Weather: 3-16 deg C.
Sunny with cold wind.

Camp Location:

N: 32°52'23.8"

W: 112°02'58.0"

Friday 28 December 2007

Last night's sunset was spectacularly red, the red sky deepening as it reflected across the sky and in the water that was running across the ground from a leaking tap.

Waking to a very cool minus 3 degree C morning as took our time rising, hoping to let the sun warm the place a little more.

Our ride today was to be a short one as we rode the final distance to the home of Justin, Jennilyn and family, Jennilyn being the daughter of friends of our family.

The terrain was nice and flat but there was cool headwind wind blowing to make up for the lack of climbing, the wind able to keep up speed across the landscape where the farmers grow their hay and lucerne.

Dairy farming in this neck of the woods is rather different to what we are used to and we saw first hand how it is done here. Large paddocks that look like holding yards stretched as far as the eye could see both along the roadway and back into the paddock, thousands of cows all bunched up in pens where they would find their way to the front, stick their head through the bars and eat the dry food that is dropped along a long concrete causeway.

Satisfied with eating they make their way to the large milking area where under large electronic fans and a roof, they walk in to where a computerised machine would then clean and milk them, allowing the operation to run 24 hours per day with minimal manpower.

The operation may be slick but the sight of thousands (no exaggeration) of cows all living in holding areas with no grass or ability to roam, no ability to get under shade except when they go for milking made us both shake our heads and wonder about it all.

Leaving the dairy farming area we passed cotton growing and then arrived in the small town of Standfield, the local farming hub for the area and chance for Joanne to get some retail therapy in the supermarket and Post Office. The road deteriorated drastically after town, the shoulder large enough to ride on but the surface covered in cracks causing a bump, bump, bump every few feet and large enough to rob us of energy and riding rhythm.

Passing a large golf club resort where the grass was so green in contrast to the bone dry desert that surrounded it we rode past bails of cotton as big as a 40' sea container, lined up in the paddock and awaiting delivery to the local cotton gin for processing. Eventually finding the road we turned off and arrived at Justin and Jennilyn's.

This is the last entry for 2007, and it has been an interesting and challenging year and no doubt 2008 will be just as interesting and challenging.

Today's Stats

From:John Wayne RV Park

To: Casa Grande

Ride Time:
1 hours 46 minutes

Distance:
24.7km's

Av Speed:
13.9 km/h

Max Speed:
18.5km/h

Max Altitude:
430m

Av Climb: 1 %

Max Climb: 3 %

Weather: -3-16 deg C.
Sunny with cold wind.

Camp Location:

N: 32°51'53.1"

W: 111°48'32.0"

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