Monday 15 October 2007

Setting off under grey skies and the threat of rain we wound our way through the quiet back streets of Bandon, the expensive homes perched on the top of the cliffs with equally impressive views of the harbour entrance and the interesting rock formations dotted along the coast with the sea smashing into them.

The trip from Brandon to Port Orford was a roller coaster ride with many small short, sharp hills to climb and descend, but with not a great deal to look at other than the usual highway scenery. Rain and high wind began to impact on our progress and we began to wonder how far we would get today. The high winds were a pain to ride into but the rain kind of fun to ride in.

Riding into Port Orford we came into a town that looked a little old and run down, old because it is the oldest town on the Oregon coast and it also claims to be the the town that is furthest west on the US mainland. Finding the fish and chips shop that we had heard so much about we stopped in for lunch, just in time to miss a heavy rain shower. The fish and chips were very nice and went down a treat. Leaving with very full tummy's we rode over to the cheap and cheerful and booked in.

The view from the motel is over Port Orford, Battle Rock and Mt Humbug which we will ride around on our way out of town and as we dried off and warmed up the weather rolled in and through, Mt Humbug disappearing in the rain. With three weather fronts coming through the area in the next few days it looks like we will be in for some interesting times as we move down the lower Oregon coast towards California.

Today's Stats

From: Bandon

To: Port Orford

Ride Time:
3 hrs 40 min's

Distance:
48.58 km's

Av Speed:
13.20 km/h

Max Speed:
43.8 km/h

Max Altitude:
123m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 11 %

Weather: 8-14deg C. Rain.

Camp Location:

N: 42°44'34.9 "

W: 124°29'34.3 "

Tuesday 16 October 2007

Rain, rain, go away! Leaving Port Orford this morning with the rain falling and a stiff headwind blowing was an uncomfortable experience. Having to climb out of town into while heading into the weather was an interesting time. The ocean was wild and covered in white caps, trees were bent over and seagulls were grounded as we made our way up towards Mt Humbug.

We were making slow progress up the hill but it turned out to be good progress compared to when we reached the top of the hill, where the hill itself was not blocking the wind. We ran headlong into the gale that was blowing, the wind strong enough to take our breath away causing us to ride with a hand in front of our mouths just to be able to breathe, the rain stinging our face and eyes leaving us struggling to see where we were going and all of this making us wonder how the rest of the day was going to be.

Turning inland around Mt Humbug we were shielded from the wind but not the rain, the road winding its way up around the mountain making us work as we climbed and climbed, running straight into another large, long climb. Stopping to answer questions from an 79 year old man from Atlantic City allowed us some respite from the climb and ended up with an offer of accommodation and assistance if we get to Atlantic City. Reaching the top we sort of leveled out for a while as we rode along the cliff tops, large rock formations along the coastline not very photogenic because of the rain but impressive in their size and majesty as they came into view.

Coming to the top of the cliff near town we were afforded a great view of the bridge and coastline beyond the town of Gold Beach, the ocean smashing into the breakwater mouth to the harbour.

Crossing the narrow, two lane bridge was an interesting experience, traffic banking up behind us as we dodged the drains and road debris, so with our fuel tanks running low we stopped at a small burger shop where the sign expressed their view that they made the "Best Burgers in Town!". Stopping outside where we could see the trikes ensured that we gave the patrons inside something to look at while they munched on their lunch, stepping inside stopped the place in its tracks, all eyes focused on us, those strange people riding funny bikes, the entertainment recommencing again when we rode off after lunch.

Riding further into Gold Beach we found a motel with all the things we need, a cheap room price, fridge, microwave, Wi-fi and located near a supermarket and Laundromat and booked in. Of course, once we had booked in the weather started to clear up and blue sky appeared briefly overhead.

Today's Stats

From: Port Orford

To: Gold Beach

Ride Time:
3 hrs 25 min's

Distance:
44.8 km's

Av Speed:
13.1 km/h

Max Speed:
54.3km/h

Max Altitude:
174m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 10 %

Weather: 6-15 deg C. Rain and strong wind.

Camp Location:

N: 42°24'51.7 "

W: 124°25'11.6"

Wednesday 17 October 2007

Weather has a huge impact on the success or failure of any venture and ours is no different. The weather off the West Coast is not looking that good at the moment. Two large fronts are forecast to come through with rain and very strong (60 mph) winds. So with a forecast like that, we have decided to take a few days off and to remain inside, warm and dry.

Gold Beach

Thursday 18 OCtober 2007

The weather didn't come yesterday like it was forecast to, so we spent the day relaxing, catching up on a few things and doing nothing in general, and when we awoke this morning, the bad weather had arrived. Driving wind and sheets of rain were blowing through the place at a great rate, hurricane warnings were issued for further up the coast where we had ridden through and we were grateful not to be out in it. Further around the country there are huge storms and hurricanes sweeping across the US.

We are around 500 miles from San Francisco and more consistently good weather so it could be a wet and windy ride to get there.

Gold Beach

Friday 19 October 2007

Living on the road is an interesting way of life, living with minimal possessions and often craving the luxuries of life - like living inside. But after a few days of living on the inside the craving for outside becomes the focus. So when there was a break in the weather we took it and hit the road. The weather had abated and we awoke to a calm morning and no rain.

Leaving Ben and a German whose name we never got, the two, two wheel recumbent riders that came in last night asleep next door, we packed up and got on the road under grey skies. Leaving town with the eagerness of the first day on the road we were riding alongside the beach, shrouded in sea mist, the sea so much calmer than the last few days, scum floating on the surface looking like strange graffiti testament to the turbulence and ferocity of the storm that had just passed.

Climbing up to the headland of Cape Sebastian involved 8 kilometres of strain and struggle before an exciting descent, the cold air cooling us and the wet, slippery road taking all of our skill to keep us on the road. Coming around the final bend the trees parted and a misty seascape of rocky coastline burst into view. Rocks of all shapes and sizes dotted along the shore where once they were part of a headland, now just a photographers delight and home to the gulls.

Leaving Cape Sebastian we were enjoying the flat road that was following the coastline until we came around a corner and noticed another long climb, which turned out to be the first of many to come. The road continued to take us up and over many hills and around headlands, through forested areas with occasional views of the ocean, often hundreds of feet below. Crossing the highest bridge in Oregon at 345 feet we were riding through along a very scenic part of the coast. We were stopping at most of the viewpoints along the way because Joanne was looking for Arch Rock, an arch in a rock that she had seen a picture of. Eventually finding the rock we stopped for lunch, enjoying not only our food but the view as well.

Meeting two other cyclists today was both interesting and enjoyable. Our first being a Canadian whose name we never got and another, Musan (spelling ?). Our Canadian cyclist was riding to Vancouver, his panniers being two dry bags bungee cord tied to his rack and a handlebar bag his only luggage. Musan, touring from the top of Oregon loaded with panniers, and like us, being forced into a motel because of the weather.

Arriving in Brookings and with the weather forecast for more bad weather tonight we called into the State Campground to see if there was a Yurt available, but meeting Musan on his way out answered that question- they were all full. So on into town we went, stopping at the Supermarket on our way to pick up some supplies. So while Joanne shopped I had the chance to talk to some of the other shoppers while I sat outside waiting.

At the end of the day it was another motel, and the hope of better weather tomorrow.

Today's Stats

From: Gold Beach

To: Brookings

Ride Time:
3 hrs 48 min's

Distance:
49.42 km's

Av Speed:
13.0km/h

Max Speed:
64 km/h

Max Altitude:
226 m

Av Climb:  3 %

Max Climb: 12 %

Weather: 8-18 deg C. Overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 42°03'12.9 "

W: 124°16'39.7"

Saturday 20 October 2007

Leaving after a shower of rain we headed out of town, across the bridge and then turned off to take the scenic route along the waterfront as opposed to the highway. Passing all sorts of homes perched along the cliff tops, all with million dollar views the sun began to come out and there at the top of a cloud was what can only be described as a rainbow blotch from the sun being reflected through the moisture at the top of the cloud.

Arriving in the small hamlet of Smith River which had obviously seen better, more prosperous days. Leaving town we had swapped the cliff top homes for farmland, open paddocks with cattle replacing forest.

Rejoining Highway 101 again as the rain began to fall we quickly got our wet weather gear on and then just as we were ready, the rain stopped and disappeared over the top of the hills that were alongside us.

A few kilometres on and we were at a sign that welcomed us to California, but the sunny California that we had hoped we would ride into was definitely missing, replaced by rain and cold.

Leaving the state line we then had to pass through a California Agriculture Checkpoint where they check for fruit fly and confiscate any fruit that you may have, even if it is Californian fruit that was exported to Oregon, effectively banning Californian fruit from returning to California. We wondered about their effectiveness however when we were just waved through without so much as being asked if we had any fruit to declare, the man telling us that it would be sunny in California!

More and more farmland eventually replaced by homes in the bush and even a ship, once the luxury floating home of a millionaire, now a shop and museum - sad! It's history here. Eventually the whole lot was replaced by the metropolis of Crescent City where we did some shopping and with the prospect of more rain on the horizon we found a cheap and cheerful motel and booked in. Another small distance day but all of these small days have been aiding my sore leg which has improved and is almost back to normal.

Why does California have the word Republic on it's flag? Click here for some interesting reading.

Today's Stats

From: Brookings

To: Crescent City

Ride Time:
3 hrs 00 min's

Distance:
44.18 km's

Av Speed:
14.7 km/h

Max Speed:
33.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
34 m

Av Climb:  3 %

Max Climb: 12 %

Weather: 10 -18 deg C. Overcast, then rain then sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 41°45'15.0 "

W: 124°11'35.8"

Sunday 21 October 2007

With a day of climbing in front of us we awoke to a flat tyre on Pip, so rather than getting an early start on the day we ended up leaving late after effecting the necessary repairs and patch job.

Riding out of town was pleasant enough and before long the road took an upward slant. From what we understood, this climb was quite a long one, would peak around 1,116 feet and would take us through some of the giant coastal redwoods. Sure enough, the climb was a steep one and we were resting often as we made our way up.

These giant trees very much like the Kari and Tingle trees we have back in Western Australia are so tall and are as straight as a gun barrel as they reach for the sky, the sheer numbers of them through here blocking the daylight on the forest floor amd casting a deep, cold shaddow as they do so, leaving the ground all cold, wet and mushy because of the lack of sunlight.

Throughout our 1,116 foot climb the road was on average around 7% and climbed for 8 kilometres before we levelled out, so with terrain like that our slow progress allowed us to really enjoy the cool of the trees as we sweated our way to the top, and of course the trees and the enviromnent that they create. Despite the fact that we were in shade, we were so glad that the day was sunny and not wet and raining like it has been. Numerous blind corners to contend with made us thankful that the Sunday traffic was light, and that we had good flashing lights on the rear.

Levelling out but still among the redwood giants we commenced a 6% downhill run where before long we came bursting out of the forest into brilliant, warming sunlight and a dry grass coastal environment high above the glimmering blue ocean that is the Pacific. Large rock out crops sticking up out of the water like icebergs and the currents swirling around them visible as we hurtled down the hill, the rather uneven surface pushing us all over the road and requiring us to use all of our riding skill to remain on the road - blocking traffic at the same time as taking in the view, we hurtled down the hill with legs that were so glad not to be working. Stopping at a lookout halfway down we enjoyed a rest, the warmth of the sun and of course the view.

Continuing on down the hill we were back at sea level, riding along the shore, the surf pounding the sand or blasting the large rocks protuding from the ocean, its roar quite lound and audible from some distance, while the wind was carrying sea mist inland to coat anything it could find.

Our lunch stop today was in the car park at a service station in the Yurok Indian Revervation which sits alongside a river that was making its way to the sea, the reservation quiet and the service station busy. Grateful for the rest, sunlight we sat enjoying our food. Lunch over we rode on towards Kalmath to find the redwod tree that you could drive a car through, thinking that it was on a side road to the highway. On arrival we found the tree on a persons private property where not only was there a $1 toll (each) but a very steep road covered in very wet, slippery leaves. After climbing the drive with our wheels slipping and sliding on the leaves, making a zzzut sound as the tyre gripped the wet bitumen after flinging the leaf out from under the wheel, we were face to face with a very a large , live redwood tree that someone had cut an archway into, thus allowing cars to pass through. So not only was the tree not on a road like we thought it was, it was also not a natural arch in the tree like we had hoped it would be.

Leaving Klamath and the tree rouse, we were making our way towards the Prairie Creek Redwood State Park Campground, our Adventure Cycling tour map directions taking us off the highway and through the Newton B Dury Parkway where we would again be riding through the redwoods. Unfortunately for us a sign at the highway off ramp said that the road ahead was closed, but had no reason or information on where the road was closed, so we rode up the hill for just over a kilometre only to find that there were gates across the road and definately no passing through. Disappointed not to have found out what the road was closed, and wondering if we could have got through, we flew back down the hill and made our way back onto the highway again.

Having been denied our 7 mile ride through the forest we began to ride the 11 miles to the turnoff to the campground, climbing and climbing and climbing for 10 kilometres, eventually toppping out at 452m, our second 1,000 feet ascent for the day. So with the day getting older and our ability to ride shortening by the pedal stroke we eventually reached the top with our energy spent and with legs that were just screaming for a rest. Stopping for a bite to eat to replace some energy and to stop the wold thinking my stomach rumbling was an earthquake we then began a very interesting and at times dangerous descent over the next 7 kilometres. Our descent was made interesting by the often steep camber of the road, the rumble strips that were unusually wide, two runaway truck arrestor beds, the guard rails that seemed very close at times and the need to just take the lane to stay away from the debris on the side in a shoulder that narrowed all too often - and of course being tired and just wanting to stop didn't help.

Finding and taking our turn off we rode the couple of kilometres to the campground, finding the road we would have come through on blocked by gates right after the campground. Too tired to care, with fading light and a desire not to camp in the hiker/biker area which again was a cold, dark place in under the trees, we took up residence in one of the other campsites, cooked and ate while the wild Elk walked through our camp, had a bird bath and went to bed grateful of the tent and our sleeping bag as the evening dew began to roll in and settle over everything and the 3/4 moon rose above the trees.

Interestingly enough we have been seeing Bear Aware signs again and this campground had food lockers at every site, something we didn't see in Oregon.

Today's Stats

From: Crescent City

To: Prairie Ck State Park

Ride Time:
5 hrs 28 min's

Distance:
67 km's

Av Speed:
12.3 km/h

Max Speed:
68 km/h

Max Altitude:
452 m

Av Climb: 4 %

Max Climb: 15 %

Weather: 10-21 deg C. Sunny

Camp Location:

N: 41°21'30.6"

W: 124°01'44.1"

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