Monday 8 October 2007

Today's ride was a short but good one. We left Pacific City with skies looking much better than yesterday and the possibility of a rain free day. Riding through oceanside farmland for a few kilometres we arrived at US Highway 101, the main highway that runs down the coast.

The route continued to take us through a mix of farmland and forest with the occasional view of the coast. Arriving at the Winema lookout we took some time to enjoy the view of the ocean and down the coast before descending down to Oretown, signs on the side of the road informing us that we were in a Tsunami zone.

According to everyone we have spoken to of late, there was two ways to go once we left Oretown, one being the old highway, 9 kilometres longer than the highway but with gentle gradients, or the Highway, a more direct route but with a 2 mile long killer hill. On arrival turnoff to the old highway we elected to deal with the killer hill and shorter route. Working our way up the hill we were glad of the space the overtaking lane afforded us along with our ability to stop at various places to rest. 55 minutes later we arrived at the top of the killer hill and 5 minutes later we were down at the bottom the other side.

Riding into Lincoln City was a roller coaster ride and full of traffic. Passing through a bushy area the blackberries exploded right in front of us and there was an Elk standing there wondering if it should try and run across the road in front of us or not. Looking back in the mirror after we passed the animal we watched as it ran across the road and to safety causing the drivers to take evasive action to ensure that they didn't end up with a bonnet ornament.

Shopping over we made our way through the very long town and with the weather closing in again found ourselves some accommodation, settling in to do some laundry and trike maintenance etc. Tomorrow's weather is forecast for worse so we might stay another day and allow Joanne to enjoy some retail therapy at the Outlet store complex down the road. We feel we are getting soft taking all this accommodation but we don't care, as we figure that once we get down the coast further we will be out of the worst weather and can start camping again.

Today's Stats

From: Pacific City

To: Lincoln City

Ride Time:
2 hrs 36 min's

Distance:
34.13  km's

Av Speed:
12.7 km/h

Max Speed:
60.2 km/h

Max Altitude:
230m

Av Climb: 4 %

Max Climb: 10 %

Weather: 7-13 deg C.
Cloudy with sunny periods

Camp Location:

N: 45°27'30.9 "

W: 123°50'38.2 "

Tuesday 9 October 2007

Took a day off here doe to really crappy weather, Joanne wanting to get some retail therapy at the Outlet Mall and our needing to get some other chores and small tasks done.

Lincoln City

Wednesday 10 October 2007

Under very grey skies and with rain falling we left our motel and got on the road, wondering and hoping that the weather would be kind to us today, but it was not looking too good. A number of climbs as we left town ensured that our legs were working hard, the traffic whizzing past us in the rain adding another dimension to the ride.

Various seascapes came into view as we rode, the angry and powerful, the wind whipping it up into a lather and driving it onshore as the storm ran its course. Many businesses and homes sitting perched along the edge given a front row seat to the show mother nature was providing.

With the rain continuing to fall we stopped at the Depoe Bay Fire Station to use the toilet before continuing on through the rain. Passing the Siletz River we noticed the large amount of tree trunks and roots lying around everywhere as if some large being had tossed them around at will and resembling a tree cemetery. Arriving in Depoe Bay itself, we viewed the ocean smashing along the rocks and sea wall that runs the length of town, large plumes of white water hurtling skywards as it was driven through the cracks and holes in the volcanic rock and providing a spectacular sight.

Diverting from the main highway onto the Otter Crest Loop we rode through the small hamlet of Otter Rock. Riding across a bridge that was built to resemble a roman viaduct we stopped to view the ocean smashing into the rocks, the white foam building up along the shore as if someone had dropped bubble bath into the ocean.

It was here that the climbing really began, the road, once the main highway, turned into a one way route and with one lane entirely for bicycles - how civilised! Riding our own lane the road wound its way along the coast, providing many nice vistas of the shoreline and ocean as it did so and often passing through tree lined areas that resembled a tunnel. Arriving at the lookout at Cape Foulweather, named by Captain James Cook on July 7, 1778 because of the weather we stopped to view the coastline and the foul weather that was along it, the height of the lookout providing a spectacular view and making the climb worth the effort.

Rapidly descending back to sea level we rejoined the main highway, the traffic heavy and sending spray in every direction, the ocean right next to the road causing us to battle the traffic, road and the elements. We were riding no more than 20 feet from the side of the shore and could see where the road used to be and where the erosion of the shore had caused the road to fall into the ocean and causing the road to be moved and rebuilt inland. In time where we were riding will also be in the sea.

Nearing Newport we spied a portaloo next to a track leading down to the beach so stopped to make use of it and then as the weather had cleared and it was lunchtime, we moved off a bit and filed our fuel tanks with food. Riding into town proper we lost our bike lane and were doing battle with the four lanes of heavy traffic, eventually stopping at a bike shop to replace the spare inner tubes we had used lately, then at the tourist information centre and finally at a cheap and cheerful motel complete with sea lions barking throughout the night right near the spectacular bridge which we will cross tomorrow.

Today's Stats

From: Lincoln City

To: Newport

Ride Time:
3 hrs 22 min's

Distance:
44.8  km's

Av Speed:
13.3 km/h

Max Speed:
46.8 km/h

Max Altitude:
141 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 7 %

Weather: 7-13 deg C.
Rain then overcast and sunny periods.

Camp Location:

N: 44°37'35.9 "

W: 124°03'42.1 "

Thursday 11 October 2007

Following the Pacific Ocean Bike Route along the Oregon Coast has thus far been an enjoyable experience, despite the rain. The whole trip is mapped out and available on the Adventure Cycling Maps. and in downloadable GPS data, making for a trip that has the guess work taken out and therefore is so easy to do - except the pedaling.

Leaving Newport with overcast grey sky we stopped at the approach to the long and impressive bridge that spans the river to press the button that causes orange lights to flash and alert motorists that there are cyclists on the narrow, two lane bridge.

Riding across with the traffic banking up behind us was quite an experience, not only for the fact that we were blocking the traffic, but because there was no road rage from anyone and they all took their turn to overtake when it was safe to do so in such an orderly manner.

Our ride today took us through some of the best ocean front scenery we have seen thus far, scenery to rival Australia's Great Ocean Road in Victoria and nice enough to have us stopping every now and then to take it all in. The road passing through small beach side hamlets, past houses perched precariously on every available vantage point and winding its way up and down along the coast, following the contours of the land and providing beautiful ocean vista's at almost every turn, vista's only spoilt by the sea mist that was obscuring the view further down the coast.

Stopping for a look at Cooks Chasm we found the ocean, though milder than the last few days, racing in through the small channel it had worn in the volcanic rock, then smashing headlong into the rock and finding its way to the outlets where, with enough force to blow you off your feet, it exploded up through the rock and into the air.

More climbing and more vista's and we arrived at the Carl G Washburne Memorial State Park, where for the princely sum of $8, we took up a hiker/biker spot under the moss covered trees that block out any sun there might be to enjoy and the various types of fungi that were growing in the moist soil. Some of these campgrounds have Yurts for hire ($30) but we were out of luck here because they were booked out, but our camp was suitable and when followed by a free hot shower, was worth the small cost we had paid.

Today's Stats

From: Newport

To: Carl G Washburne Memorial State Park

Ride Time:
3 hrs 53 min's

Distance:
57.4  km's

Av Speed:
14.8 km/h

Max Speed:
47.9km/h

Max Altitude:
71 m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 14 %

Weather: 7-18 deg C.
Overcast then sunny periods.

Camp Location:

N: 44°09'42.2 "

W: 124°06'45.1 "

Friday 12 October 2007

Waking to clear skies this morning our hiker/biker camp in the State Park had been peaceful enough but neither of us had slept that well.

Climbing from the moment we left the camp we arrived at one of the tunnels we had read and heard about. Stopping to press the button which activates the warning lights we proceeded into the tunnel, traffic alerted to our presence by the flashing yellow lights at the entrance passing us with ease and making us grateful that Oregon is such a cycle friendly and aware state.

More climbing as the road wound its way around the headlands and hills along the coast, our speed low and legs aching.

With the tunnel entrance still just visible we climbed one more ascent and arrived at a lookout with its coastline vista including the Hector Head Lighthouse.

More ups and downs, rounds and about's, we were working pretty hard, working up a good sweat and thirst as we rode the coastline, the views too many to photograph but worth the work. Finally descending down from the hills and towards Dune City we swapped long tree lined hills for short sharp sand dune riding.

Rolling dunes took us to Florence, a large town and where we found the local bike shop but not the spare tyres we were after. Moving on after shopping for some food we rode on and up towards the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. Having had a craving for some hot chips for a few days Joanne found a small cafe at the bottom of a large hill with the smell of cooking oil oozing from it, so we stopped to fix that craving. Bellies full we slowly climbed up the hill and after initially taking a wrong turn arrived at the campground where for $8 we again took up residence in a hiker/biker campsite among the trees. Typically our site was a fair walk away from the toilets and the showers (old, dirty and in need of ripping down and starting again) were far enough away to raise a sweat on the way back - thankfully they come with the site fee and are not on a timer.

Today's Stats

From: Carl G Washburne Memorial State Park

To: Umpqua Lighthouse State Park

Ride Time:
4 hrs 48 min's

Distance:
69.1 km's

Av Speed:
14.4 km/h

Max Speed:
64.1 km/h

Max Altitude:
122m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 8 %

Weather: 10-21 deg C. Clear skies, some sun.

Camp Location:

N: 43°39'40.2 "

W: 124°11'38.3 "

Saturday 13 October 2007

A restless night for some reason and we were awake as the first rays of light came filtering through the trees. Leaving our hiker/biker site Joanne decided that we would take a short trip down to the lighthouse. Descending the steep grade with really tight corners, we arrived at the lighthouse and other buildings all over looking the Umpqua harbour entrance and impressive coastline. Its hard to imagine but the lighthouse, perched well up off the coast, was actually destroyed by floods back in 1884. It also has lenses made in France in 1880.

Climbing back up the kilometre long 14% grade took some time and effort and so before we had even covered two kilometres we were totally covered in sweat. Heading off towards the highway we were riding though the forest as the sun began to filer through the trees, its rays warm on our skin - as if we were not hot enough from the climbing.

Following the highway as it rolled up and down the sand dunes we were making good time but the legs were working hard, muscles aching and causing us to work the low gears quite a bit.

Heading towards North Bend we could see the very long and large McCullough Bridge where all of our literature said that we had to walk our bikes over it. The bridge is named after a man by the name of McCullough. He designed seven of the bridges along our cycling route, this one constructed in 1936 is the longest structure on the Oregon highway system. Its 5,305 feet long and the main tower is 280 feet over the water.

The closer we got to the bridge the more we wondered why we had to walk our bikes, and on arrival at the approach we found out why - wind gusts. A further look at the pedestrian walk also confirmed that walking our trikes was not an option as it was not wide enough for the trike let alone us walking it - so we took the road. Hugging the side as much as possible we crawled up the long approach and then over the bridge itself, traffic courteous and obliging, taking its time and passing when safe, and with no road rage, something we attributed to the fact that Oregonians are so cycle aware because of the cycle route that runs and is advertised throughout the state.

Finally crossing the bridge we stopped at the tourist information centre and a visit to a bike shop, conveniently located opposite the tourist information centre. A stop further in town for some food and we were riding out of town towards Charleston our selected destination. The lady in the motel telling us that it was half an hour from town, but half an hour in what? After riding for around an hour we surmised that it was not on a bicycle or tricycle.

Charleston is a fishing town and stores and businesses are all named accordingly - Davy Jones Locker Grocery Store, Captain Johns Motel, etc etc. We took up residence in Captain Johns Motel overlooking the harbour and surrounding buildings relaxing and taking a nice long soak in the bath the try and relieve the ache in the legs.

Today's Stats

From: Umpqua Lighthouse State Park

To: Charleston

Ride Time:
3 hrs 14 min's

Distance:
47.8  km's

Av Speed:
14.7 km/h

Max Speed:
50.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
98 m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 13 %

Weather:

8-21 deg C. Sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 43°20'34.4 "

W: 124°19'37.9 "

Sunday 14 October 2007

Its not often that the place we stay in has a free breakfast, so as we were leaving Captain Johns this morning we filled up on the coffee and doughnuts, minus the coffee that was available. The soak in the bath last night had done some good to ease the ache in my thigh but the 15% grade leaving town sure put it back in. Following the Oregon Bike Route meant taking the 7 Devils Road as opposed to the highway.

The 7 devils as they are commonly known around here are 7 hills that come one after the other for 18 kilometres as the road climbs and then follows a ridgeline through the hills.

We were riding in low cloud, the wind blowing the moisture around as we climbed. Someone with a sense of humour had painted the details of each devil on the road and in some cases left a message like "Devil # 3, Ya gotta love it!". The further and higher we rode, the deeper the cloud became and the visibility lessened, and by the time we had got to Devil # 4 we had lights turned on front and back.

Finally arriving at the top we turned off onto another road with the commentary on the road saying "Let the fun begin!" making us wonder if there were more devils to conquer or was it to be downhill.

The fun turned out to be an exhilerating downhill as the road wound its way down the hill through the fog and causing us a few interesting moments. Levelled out we were riding through homes on the outskirts of town and before we knew it we were in Brandon where with no let up in the leg ache we called it a short day and found oursleves somewhere to stay.

Today's Stats

From: Charleston

To: Bandon

Ride Time:
2 hrs 31 min's

Distance:
33.8  km's

Av Speed:
13.3 km/h

Max Speed:
47.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
177 m

Av Climb: 4 %

Max Climb: 15 %

Weather: 8-15 deg C. Cloudy and overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 43°07'12.3 "

W: 124°23'51.6 "

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