Monday 29 October 2007

An overcast morning greeted us as we peered out of the window and the threat of a wet day made us glad we were inside. A check of the bike shop hours showed a 9.30 am opening, a further check showed that it was possible to call the local bus company and have them turn up to take you into town but asking to use the office phone resulted in the owner offering to take us into the bike shop, an offer we gladly accepted.

The only bike shop in town and it was not able to help with a new hub or spindle where the cluster sits, so it was back to square one. The good news was that the mechanic felt that the crack would not worsen and that it should get us to San Francisco, but we will stop at other bike shops along the way to check if they have what we want.

A short walk to the laundry to get everything washed was next on the list, so while I read the magazines and played security guard to the laundry, Joanne went off and got some more retail therapy. Drizzle falling as we walked back to our cottage and then the rest of the day was spent snoozing, reading maps and generally relaxing.

Today's Stats

Fort Bragg

Tuesday 30 October 2007

Today started off like any other day on the road except that both of us did not feel like riding and that we should have just stayed in bed, and of course a puncture from a piece of glass 5 kilometres into the ride didn't help much either.

The road was generally uphill on the way to Mendocino, and on arrival we found a quaint little town, neat as a pin and fashioned along the Victorian theme, as are most towns along this part of the coast. Looking for a bike shop we had to leave town and take a small trip down to the river where we located "Catch a canoe and bicycles too". The staff very helpful and interested in our trip, and they had one of the three things we were after.

Eventually, and with our mood not improving we arrived at the Van Damme State Park Campground where we decided to take have lunch and take the rest of the day off. Our campsite was in the hiker/biker spot near the toilets and showers and there was only one other tent in there, the ground damp and the air cold in amongst the semi rain forest.

The young man camped there seemed slightly strange and wandering around like he was off with the fairies. As time progressed the reason for his demeanour became obvious. Some people turned up looking for him and off he went with them, on his way mentioning to the man that he only had 2,000 seeds - aha, a clue! Then later on he came back with a young woman and small child to pick something up, she swearing enough to make a sailor blush. Later in evening as we were settled in our nice warm bed he came back, this time in the company of an older woman who basically got him back to his tent, told him it would all be okay, and then scampered as quickly as she could. Strange things are done under the midnight sun, and, it would seem, along the Californian coast. Of course during all this we were gong about our normal camping business, but you can bet that we slept with one eye and one ear cocked, looking and listening just in case.

Today's Stats

From: Fort Bragg

To: Van Damme State Park CG

Ride Time:
1 hrs 36 min's

Distance:
19.69 km's

Av Speed:
12.20 km/h

Max Speed:
44 km/h

Max Altitude:
84m

Av Climb: 2 %

Max Climb: 11 %

Weather: 8-13deg C and Overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 39 °16'34.9 "

W: 123°47'04.8"

Wednesday 31 October 2007

We didn't get murdered or even bothered by the drug cartel last night, and awoke to the sound of rain, something that made us consider staying in bed, but we wanted to get some distance under the wheels today as San Francisco is less that 150 miles away. We have the offer of some accommodation there with family of our good friends Tony & Ketut in Adelaide, so there is some urgency to riding. We also have the offer of a visit to some friends of bike riders John & Marie whom we hosted at home some time ago, but the location is somewhat out of the way and looks like we will not get there after all.

Leaving the Van Damme SP we were immediately heading up hill, the coastline highway continuing to wind its way around all the small bays and inlets and up and over the headlands where every piece of land is taken and there are as many "No Trespassing" signs as there are views of the ocean.

Despite the grey sky that met the ocean almost with no horizon, and with the eagles riding the thermals looking for breakfast we rode along the cliff tops where the side of the road was often a matter of feet from a long drop down to the ocean all the while enjoying the many views of the ocean, the rocks and the occasional small bay, often full of driftwood and other flotsam and jetsam.

Passing through the small town of Albion we descended through some fast hairpin bends as we descended down to and crossed over a large bridge which was nicely reflected in the still water of the inlet. Over the bridge we were again climbing and this time all the way up to some roadwork's before continuing on through the windy road that would be a blast to come up on a motorbike. Edging closer to the small town of Elk we could see the weather breaking in the distance over the top of a rock strewn bay ahead of us.

As we arrived in the small town of Elk Joanne noticed some small cottages with a great ocean view and there was some debate over staying or not, but wanting to get some distance in today, and not wanting to pay too much money put that idea to bed.

Descending out of Elk through tight, twisty bends we then had to pay for some of that fun, and pay we did. The road climbed very steeply away from the inlet and before we knew it we were straining and pushing very hard to get up the 14% grade, and just when we had that under control we were presented with another interesting obstacle - hairpin bends, or switchbacks as they are called here. Up and up we went, the turns on the corners adding to the gradient and really making us work hard and making us wish that we had suspension to take some of the lean out of the corner, the tightest being 18%! We eventually made it to the top and took a breather, the sweat we had raised cooling very quickly in the cold wind and making us shiver.

Its interesting how attuned one can get to an object, which in our case is our trikes. We spend so much time riding them that the slightest change in noise, performance or other oddity can make one stop and check for what sometimes might not even be there. This was the case not long after setting off from our break at the top of the hairpins. During the 18% grade corner I felt a softer than normal motion through the pedals and it seemed like the back wheel was slipping on the road surface, and then the chain didn't want to stay in first gear, so with the crack in the spindle that holds the rear cassette in mind, a check at the top was required. Not visibly finding anything wrong we continued on only to have a symptom of the problem arise on the first downhill run. The chain was whipping up and down under my seat as it tried to move backwards through the rear de-railier and gears when I was coasting, de-railing itself anywhere it could and making a hell of a racket except in first gear. Stopping for another check failed to find anything wrong with the chain, jockey wheels, de-railier etc, so it was a case of continue on towards Manchester and the campground, keeping the pedals turning and dropping the gears into first whenever I wanted to coast, which as the road twisted, turned ascended and descended, was often.

Stopping for lunch in a farmers driveway we quickly threw our lunch down and got back on the road again, our urgency being driven by the cold wind that was chilling us to the bone, and the desire to get to somewhere where we could camp and address the mechanical issue on Pip.

It was after we got back on the road that we spied a road sign that made us both laugh. California has some very liberal marijuana laws, and part of those laws is the use of the drug for medical reasons, but where else other than America would the drug users have a union to protect their rights!

Nearing our desired location we spied two Elk about to jump over a fence and cross the road in front of us, totally unafraid of the traffic coming up behind us, so just as the small truck passed us the first Elk made a run for it and after just being missed by the truck continued on its way, but the car following the truck was going too fast and was too close to the truck to see what had happened, so as the Elk made it safely to the other side, the driver of the car hit the skids to avoid us and the back of the truck, locking all four wheels in the process, that horrible screech of rubber and then the smell of it burning filling the air all around us and making us glad that we were about to stop for the day.

Pulling into the campground one of the things we did was to inspect Pip very closely, a closed but twisted out of position rear skewer being the only thing we could find wrong, correction of which seemed to fix the mechanical issue, allowing the wheel to coast freely, the chain to be back pedaled and gear changing to occur. The soft mushy motion through the pedals on that 18% grade turn must have been the skewer letting go and turning in the dropout!

Today's Stats

From: Van Damme State Park CG

To: Manchester CA

Ride Time:
3 hrs 18 min's

Distance:
43.38  km's

Av Speed:
13 km/h

Max Speed:
59.90km/h

Max Altitude:
98 m

Av Climb: 4 %

Max Climb: 18 %

Weather: 10-13deg C Drizzle then Overcast.

Camp Location:

N: 38°58'04.8"

W: 123°41'42.0"

Thursday 01 November 2007

The Californian coast fog was in this morning as we headed off down the road and riding through the coastal farming country with it's distinct aroma was reasonably enjoyable especially with the light traffic. We were enjoying the flattish riding before we had to climb up to the top of a ridge so as to turn off towards the Point Arena Lighthouse that Joanne wanted to visit.

With open farmland between us and the lighthouse we were able to view the ocean, coast and lighthouse all the way down to where we were greeted by a gate closed (10.30am opening) and a $15 per adult charge. Immediately deciding that we were glad they were closed we walked out onto the cliff to survey the coastline.

Strange rocks with striation lines through them were just offshore, sea lions basking in the morning's weather lying along the leeward side of the rocks as the ocean came in and nobody else around.

Heading back towards the highway we came to an area where there was a rock bridge and other areas to explore on foot. The cold wind off of the ocean ensuring that we didn't stay too long and eagerly climbed back up the hill so as to keep warm.

Last nights Halloween did nothing as far as treats were concerned and today the tricks with the rear hub on Pip returned. With the skewer still firmly in place the freewheel was not freewheeling and the whole thing was about to self destruct as the chain again started whipping around and derailing itself as soon as I stopped pedaling, even in first gear this time.

Arriving in Point Arena itself was a relief except when we found the main street was all downhill and the fact that the place was so small. Stopping at the service station we tried a washer as a spacer to see if that would help with the rear wheel by forcing the drop outs out, but it did nothing to help. Ringing the bike shop back in Mendocino didn't help either as the mechanic was at the doctors until 1pm, so we went down to the wharf to enjoy the view and to wait until 1pm.

Ringing back at the appropriate time allowed us to arrange to get the hub looked at and possibly fixed - tomorrow, which was just as well as the bus service runs once per day through these parts. Back in town we booked into the only accommodation around so as to wait for the bus in the morning.

Today's Stats

From: Manchester CA

To: Point Arena

Ride Time:
1 hrs 01 min's

Distance:
22.11  km's

Av Speed:
12.8 km/h

Max Speed:
44 km/h

Max Altitude:
61 m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 11 %

Weather: 10-18deg C Fog then sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 38°54'31.8"

W: 123°41'33.4"

Friday 02 November 2007

With no hope of traveling forward today we took a trip backwards to Mendocino and another visit to "Catch a Canoe, Bicycles too". Catching the local bus service in the main street we took the hour long trip back into Mendocino and it was interesting to see the coastline from the opposite direction and from the higher position of a bus.

Arriving at the bike shop we met David the bike mechanic. Pulling the rear cassette off of the wheel and then the broken cassette hub body David searched his stock for a replacement, but to no avail, and not having a seven speed hub to replace the one in the wheel the only alternative was to find a replacement wheel from the old bikes they had sitting around.

As luck would have it there was a reasonable wheel with a 7 speed cassette on it so after cleaning it up. checking the spokes and bearings, David put my cassette on it, swapped the tyre over, and all for $20!

David had to leave to attend an appointment so we had a chat with the owner before starting to head back to town. The shop is about a mile from town but he shortened our trip by offering to take us across the river in an outrigger canoe so that we could then walk up the beach and into town, saving us a 20 minute walk. With Joanne and I in the middle and front we paddled across the river using the tide to carry us downstream and eventually over to the sand on the other side.

Walking up the beach and into town we took a walk around the Victorian style town before spending a few hours in the coffee shop surfing the net before eventually catching the bus back to Point Arena. Installation and testing of the new wheel and then a meal finished our day.

Church built of Redwood (circa 1856)

Typical Home (circa 1882)

Point Arena

Saturday 3 November 2007

It can be a little tense having things broken and not working properly, added to which being in a town that doesn't have the necessary facilities to remedy the problem. With a new wheel fitted and the old sitting on the trailer it was with some relief that we left Point Arena this morning and continued on with the trip along the roller coaster ride that is the pacific coast.

Passing through farmland along the coast on a road with little to no shoulder in the cool of the morning was pleasant enough, the cool air trapped under the occasional bank of trees helping to cool us as we rode. The sun was in front of us and lighting up the sea ahead turning the blue into a dazzling brightness. More and more eucalyptus trees to ride under, the strong smell of them enough at times to take our breath away, all the time reminding us of Australia.

Up and down, round and round we went as the road followed the coast and the small inlets, tight hairpin bends to whiz down to and through before having to climb back up to the same level we were on before we descended to the bend. Many homes perched along the cliffs through here taking advantage of the magnificent ocean views, plain on the roadside and most certainly beautiful on the other, all sitting behind gates and high fences with as many "No Trespassing" signs as there were paillings on the fence.

The lack of shoulder to ride on presented a few challenges today, none the least two occasions when drivers coming up from behind decided to overtake us with traffic coming the other way, one one cutting back in to save himself from his stupid move, close enough to touch as he did so and earning a blast from my air horn. Scooting down into the town of Gualala and a chance to re supply some food was fun, the seaside community bustling with people going about their business, cars and people going in every direction.

What followed from Gualala was another twisting, climbing road about a kilometre from the ocean where various housing estates had sprung up taking advantage of the 180 degree ocean views, and all on land belonging to something called "Sea Ranch". These communities, complete with golf course, fire station and a strange looking chapel went for around 10 kilometres and made us wonder who or what Sea Ranch was.

With the temperature around 24 degrees and a brilliant blue sky we were climbing and climbing towards the Salt Point State Park and the Gerstle Campground where we found ourselves a nice spot and set up camp as we looked over the ocean from way up on the hill, and with the prospect of a sunset photo over the ocean.

Today's Stats

From: Manchester CA

To: Salt Point State Park

Ride Time:
3 hrs 45 min's

Distance:
54.55  km's

Av Speed:
14.4 km/h

Max Speed:
64.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
80 m

Av Climb: 3 %

Max Climb: 13 %

Weather: 8-24 deg C Sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 38°34'10.4"

W: 123°19'30.0"

Sunday 4 November 2007

Happy Anniversary to us! 12 months ago today we left what was our home and commenced this trip. How quickly that time has gone and so many kilometres have gone under the tyres.

A change out of daylight saving allegedly gave us an extra hours sleep this morning, but in reality all it did was re-align daylight with when we wake up, (or vice versa). After a beautiful sunset last night a clear sky meant that we slept in a multi million star room last night, the first time in some time that we have been able to see the stars at night, and it was spectacular!

Waking to a warm morning of 11 degrees, with clear sky and the sun shining over the ocean already we packed up and began our ride in shorts rather than long pants for the first time in a long time. Finishing the hill and then descending through the forest, more eucalyptus trees and homes with million dollar views.

Climbing a small hill there was a strange feeling through the pedals and upon investigation we found that the inside of a chain guide jockey wheel had come adrift from where the chain runs through it. Removing it from the trike, aligning it by by hand and then bashing it back into place on a large rock soon fixed the problem and restored things to the way it was meant to be. Amazing how a little bit of bush mechanics can fix things, even temporarily. Hopefully it will be okay to get us to San Francisco.

Leaving the forest behind we were again riding along the cliff and through more farmland we came to the small settlement of Fort Ross near the original Fort which is now a State Park and tourist attraction. Stopping for a look at the Fort from the road we could see Turkey Vultures sunning themselves on the posts around the Fort's garden and after a fast descent, hairpin bend and climb we came to the Fort Ross Cemetery. Stopping and wandering in we found a small area about an acre in size cleared amongst the coastal bush and covered with wooden crosses that were made of an upright, a small cross beam across the top, then a larger one and then a smaller one on an angle near the bottom. Nothing was on these crosses to distinguish who, what or when, so we wandered around looking at them and their view over the Fort and the ocean.

Our biggest climbs of the day were after Fort Ross and they both made us work hard. Up and up and up we went from almost sea level to almost 600', the road narrow and winding as it climbed along the side of the large hill we were ascending, barren grass land on one side and a long drop off down to the ocean on the other, and all while passing through a farm, complete with cattle grids (Texas Gates) along the way. Roadwork's near the top forcing us to press the button for cyclists before we commenced our climb. Noting that the road was now one lane and with barely enough room for a car let alone a trike followed by impatient motorists, we chose to ride on the other side amongst where the work was, eventually reaching the top where we stopped to enjoy the views up and down the coastline.

More and more riding perched along the side of the hill and heading into the sun before we descended all the way back to sea level via a series of fast hairpins and short straights, the road visible beneath us as we made the various turns, braking hard and thinking that we were glad we were going down and not up! A small climb and then we descended into the small town of Jenner, passing many homes perched on the side of the cliff between the road and a huge drop as they took advantage of the view along the river and out to sea.

More and more coastal riding as we pressed on from Jenner, more and more homes on the cliff tops, this time on the inland side of the road, but all with million dollar ocean views spoilt only by the road and the traffic as it whizzed by.

Arriving at the Bodega Dunes Beach State Park we rode in to find the hiker/biker sites, which were exactly as our friends John and Marie had described. Pushing our trikes up through the soft wet sand, we found some tents set up amongst the eucalyptus trees and one cyclist who was thinking about getting on the road. Locating a nice spot under the gum trees, and with the unmistakable smell of eucalyptus filling the air, we set up camp on a bed of gum leaves, enjoyed a free, luke warm shower, adjusted the brakes on the trikes, caught up on journals and generally relaxing.

Today's Stats

From: Salt Point State Park

To: Bodega Dunes State Beach Campground

Ride Time:
3 hrs 32 min's

Distance:
46.08  km's

Av Speed:
13 km/h

Max Speed:
57.5 km/h

Max Altitude:
184 m

Av Climb: 4 %

Max Climb: 11 %

Weather: 8-24 deg C Sunny.

Camp Location:

N: 38°20'26.8"

W: 123°03'10.2"

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